Happy Anniversary-The Five-Year Hump

As I sit down to write this, I cannot believe that 5 years have gone by since the creation of this blog and our move to The Netherlands.  Sometimes, it seems like these 5 years have been just as normal (well mostly) as if we had stayed in our home state, and other times, it feels like we have experienced so much that we have completely changed who we are.  These 5 years have seen their fair share of excitement and fun but also hardships, self-doubt, and frustration.  I am reminded of a family relations class that I took in college (more years ago than I care to admit) in which the professor said that generally the first year and the fifth year of marriage have been shown to be the most difficult.  Maybe that holds true for an overseas move as well.

For obvious reasons, our first year was tough.  It was filled with lots of exciting new adventures and friends but lots of uncertainty and self-doubt.  After that, it felt like we had hit our stride a bit.  Sure, things would crop up here and there, friends would still move away, and Covid was a rough blow for certain, but for the most part, things were going pretty well.  And now, here we were in our fifth year, and things once again became difficult.

For starters, we have been struggling all year (and if we are honest for a year or so before this) with our youngest’s school environment.  He has struggled with being an outcast from the small group of kids in his grade (a problem we had been worried about with the small school) for almost two years, but this year, it escalated into full bullying and not the physical (for the most part) kind which might have been easier to deal with.  No, it was a full psychological assault, and though we knew it was happening, we weren’t aware of the full impact it was having on our child until a few months ago.  Aside from the parent guilt of having put and left him in this situation, this put us into a panic about what to do because it was clear that we could not leave him in this environment anymore.  Unfortunately, the nearest school that utilizes a school schedule and curriculum that we are comfortable with is about a 40-minute drive away.  This put us into a tailspin of uncertainty about whether we could compromise on some of what we are looking for and go to a closer school, or if we would have to face the prospect of driving back and forth every day and being unable to attend as many school functions as if we lived closer.  In the end, after trying to weigh many factors, the further school won, and we had to scramble to apply and gain admission.  Luckily, we did, and we have been full steam ahead with embracing the new school since, however, we still have the daily drive looming over us and the difficulty of having one foot in the door at two unrelated schools as our oldest it still at the old school for one final year.  It has certainly caused some stress and will most likely continue to do so into the future.

A second difficulty this past year has involved our oldest.  Last year, she began an International Baccalaureate program at school, and though we knew it was going to be time consuming and demanding, I don’t think we were fully prepared for the amount of time it would take her away from family time.  With very little free time left, she spent a lot more time in her room working and a lot less time doing things with us.  In addition, watching the effect that this workload had on her was devastating as a parent because I want her to still have time to be a kid and to enjoy her last years of high school.  On top of that, she faces her own difficulties with the school environment and the lack of social opportunities which brought up those old feelings of self-doubt and the same question that I had a lot in the first year of this experience which was “did we make the right decision, or did we destroy our children’s happiness?”  And to add insult to injury, we had to begin thinking about where she is going next.  Graduation and moving away is hard enough in normal circumstances, but with college looming, the possibility of her heading back to the US and us still living here was beginning to look less like a possibility and more like a reality.  All of this was enough to induce some definite stress and uncertainty.

Another struggle this past year has been health related.  I have been having a few issues (more than I wanted or anticipated) with my health this past year.  Nothing truly life threatening or serious that I know of, but I was still caught by surprise and thrown into a bit of a tailspin by what I was experiencing.  Health issues are a stressor in and of themselves, but living here, I really struggle with the healthcare system.  I don’t want to experience problems and have to utilize a system that I do not fully trust, understand, or agree with.  Having a major health issue here has been one of my fears from the beginning and having to deal with these things this year has really brought me down.  My frustrations with the healthcare system and my own self for having these issues has been very difficult this year and has taken a bit of a toll on me mentally.

Finally, as I have mentioned before, one of the hallmarks of being an expat is never really knowing how long you will stay or where you will go next.  For some expats, this is a yearly ordeal, but for us, it was never that bad.  In the first year, we knew how long we would be here (at least so far as we had planned), and only as we hit our third year, did we start to have to question that reality and make decisions.  After deciding to stay until our oldest graduates, this worry was again removed for us.  But here we were in this past year, having to have these discussions again as graduation is on the horizon, and with a job and another child, it is not as easy as just picking up and leaving.  So, uncertainty is back as we lean into the ever-popular expat behavior of just sitting back and waiting until the answers and the path become clearer so that a decision can be made.

But don’t get me wrong, it hasn’t been all bad.  We have taken some amazing trips this past year and done a lot of fun things.  We have enjoyed time with longtime friends and even made new friends.  We have had accomplishments and successes and things to celebrate.  I guess, just like with marriage, there are difficulties (some years more than others) and there are joys.  It’s up to us to decide whether we let those difficulties weigh us down, or if we embrace the happy times and face the uncertainties and frustrations together with the belief that we can face the challenges, find happiness in whatever comes next, and make decisions without fear or doubt because we have each other and a network of people that will see us through.  And maybe, after 5 years, we have seen that even when it doesn’t feel like it, we might be a little stronger than we think.

So now, to hold myself accountable, here is a revisit of last year’s goal.

  1. Taking 5 trips that were slated for year 5.

I’m happy to report that we took 4 of the 5 planned trips.  One had to be substituted for an alternate location.  We loved these trips and had a really good time together.

  1. Have at least 1 conversation in Dutch in which I don’t sound like a two-year-old.

I’m not sure I accomplished this, but my oldest reminds me that a two-year-old can’t order in a restaurant or make a dental appointment.  In addition, while it isn’t a conversation, I did read a whole 250 page book in Dutch, so that was an accomplishment for me.

  1. Get back in shape.

I wish I could say I accomplished this.

  1. Complete the list of places to see in The Netherlands that I created our first year.

We are so close.  We have scheduled to see the last 2 places within the next 4 weeks, so fingers crossed, we get to.

  1. Complete 6 bike route trips that I had researched.

We have completed 3 of the 6 trips.  Upon further research, they weren’t as doable as I originally thought, but I haven’t given up completely.

So, do I have goals for this year?

  1. Getting myself to where I want to be physically is my number one goal this year.
  2. Working on 3 or 4 creative ventures that I have been thinking about for a while.
  3. Getting to a list of about 10 museums that we would like to see.
  4. Bike to the beach.

This coming year is going to mostly be about spending time together as a family before our oldest leaves and about supporting both of the kids in their school work and activities.  It should be a crazy and emotional year which will come with many challenges and difficulties I am sure, but I hope that we can find many positives and enjoy ourselves along the way.  So, I hereby raise my (imaginary) glass to five years of “my so called Dutch life.”  Through all the ups and downs, you have been more life altering than I ever thought possible.  Happy Anniversary!

**For those that are still out there and following our journey after 5 years, thank you for sticking with us!  I would love for you to comment or just say hi as I never know who is following along.  Also, if there are any questions/topics that you would like to see addressed, let me know-I’m always searching for new material that can be covered.

What Is Your Nationality?

Let me ask you a question: What is your nationality?

No matter where you go, some things will always be permanent contrary to the common phrase, “the only constant in life is change.” As an expat just starting my journey in a new country, I would have agreed with this. No matter how far I was from where I had spent my childhood, I still viewed it as my home and my nationality. As sweet as that sounds, people might really have a point when they say that “the only constant in life is change.”

After nearly five years away from my home country and nearing the stage in my life when I am beginning to think about what I am going to do as an adult, I have begun to reflect on what it means to be an expat kid moving into adulthood. Which has brought me to the question that I have heard hundreds of times throughout this part of my life: what is your nationality?

Upon first coming to the international school I attend, that question was fairly new to me. The answer was simple. I was an American who had lived in the United States of America my whole life, and I answered as such. My second nationality might have been added on as an afterthought. It didn’t take long before I began to become adjusted to all the different cultures around me. Many students had multiple nationalities and partook of both their cultures while speaking both their native languages. I have a Brazilian passport, eat Brazilian food at home sometimes, and visit my family in Brazil, but I always found myself feeling jealous of the other kids I was around who would speak to me in English before turning to converse with their family in their other tongue. Before too long, I would proudly claim both my nationalities when asked “the question,” but there was always a feeling of guilt associated with it, as though I was claiming something I didn’t deserve. Regardless, this was the first change. It wasn’t just about the answer I was giving but the feeling I had. Being around kids like me with multiple nationalities allowed me to feel more comfortable in also being a dual-nationality kid. I had always been that, but I didn’t view myself in that way as much as I later came to at the international school.

Now, an even bigger change has occurred though the way I answer the question hasn’t. The person that I am now is not something that everyone understands, not something many want to see, but it is who I am. If I really answered the question honestly now: my nationality is expat.

People expect that when they ask, “what is your nationality?” they will get an answer that is written on a passport or maybe two or three. What we often fail to recognize is that nationality is more than text on a page. Nationality is different for different people, but it can be home, culture, language, a place of residence, friendships, family, and more. For many, it is subconscious. It is the things that you understand that people of other nationalities don’t (note: this doesn’t mean that different nationalities clash with one another or lack common ground as the similarities still outweigh the differences).

A common thing to hear adult expats say is that they love meeting people from around the world, but for some reason when they are talking to someone of their own nationality, they always feel more comfortable, as if the conversation flows easier. They are ever so slightly drawn more to those that share the same nationality as them.

As much as one might expect that I can understand other Americans like that, the truth of the matter is that I can’t. I try to understand my culture, remember what a “typical American” does in certain situations and recall what school is like there. My American friends turn to me knowing that I will relate and understand when our other friends don’t only to be fully disappointed. Of course, I am still American and Brazilian. Those are my origins. That said, the people that I am always drawn to are not of these nationalities but rather, are Expat with a capital E. Our culture is change and open-mindedness, our family and friends spread around the world, and our home a mystery we are yet to solve.

Maybe one day I will have a different nationality again, but what I have learned is that as much as one may want to push back against the phrase “the only constant in life is change,” change will happen whether you want it to or not. You never know what is waiting for you around the next corner, and that isn’t a bad thing. With that in mind, for now, I will revel in the expat life I have come to understand and feel comfortable in while also keeping in mind that the unknown lurks around the corner (which is coming up far faster than I ever imagined). I can’t wait to see where my journey takes me next, and I look forward to growing with life into a better person – the person that I will be, but as of yet, cannot even begin to imagine.

**written by my oldest child

From Sea and Sun to Mountains and Monuments

The past 3 weeks we have been on a 3,100-mile adventure as we made our way from home, through eastern Europe, and back.  It began with a week in Switzerland in the Interlaken area.  While our son experienced the fun of scout camp for a week, the rest of us spent the week in a 400-year-old house in the mountain.  We had some amazing views of the Swiss Alps, and we got to take a few nature hikes to a gorge and to a glacial lake in the mountains.

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We also enjoyed some Swiss dining such as fondue, raclette, rosti and an interesting place where we grilled skewers at our place at the table.  And no meal would be complete without some meringue desserts.

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Day 1

After our week in the Alps at a slow pace, it was time to pick things up.  We retrieved our son from camp and began our journey to eastern Europe with a long drive through Italy which included 2 rail car transports-an interesting experience sitting in your car being ferried through a dark tunnel in the mountain.

By the late afternoon, we arrived in Slovenia and were treated to scenic, winding roads through densely wooded mountains and small villages alongside rivers and streams.  It was very beautiful although the roads were a bit nerve-racking.

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Upon arriving at our rental unit, we were greeted by the host with a glass of her homemade blueberry liquour (a specialty in Slovenia).

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We headed off to our first taste of Slovenian food-cottage cheese strukjli (dough filled with cottage cheese), Loska (local beer), ajdovi krapi (buckwheat dumplings stuffed with cottage cheese) and kranjska klobasa (Slovenian sausage).

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After a long day of driving, it was time to go to bed.

Day 2

Our second day began with an early morning stop at the local bakery to grab some sweet struklji, apple strudel and a small cake.

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With something in our stomachs, we were ready to tackle the Vogar hiking path in Triglav National Park.  The path began in a meadow at the foot of the mountains but quickly became a steep, rocky path up the mountain.

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It took us about an hour of straight uphill walking to get to the alpine meadow at the top of the mountain.

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After 30 minutes through the meadow, we reached the viewpoint to the lake below.

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After enjoying the view, we began to make our way back down the rocky path which was also exhausting.

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Once we made it to the bottom, we rewarded our efforts with a lunch stop in a nearby town.  We tried jota (a stew with beans, potatoes and sauerkraut), struklji filled with cottage cheese and breadcrumbs, 2 flavors (plum and herb) of zjange (liquors) and some kremsnita cake for dessert.  Everything was very good.

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After the enjoyable break from the hiking, we were ready to take on another hike in the afternoon at Vintar Gorge.  The hike was beautiful with really clear water.  Along the way, we saw a lot of fish and barn swallows in the water.  We walked the length of the gorge to the Sum Waterfall at the end.

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We grabbed a quick snack of potica (poppy seed filled dough).

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Then, it was back to hiking to return to the car.  The trail back was through the forested area above the gorge, which was nice, but it was more uphill.  There were some nice views, though.

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After completing the hike, we drove around Lake Bled where there are some really lovely spots.

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It was time to get some dinner.  We found a cute little place at a gorge area, but they didn’t have many Slovenian dishes.  We were able to try some Slovenian wine and premurska gibanica (layered cake) for dessert.  The layers were poppy seed, apple, dough, etc.  It was pretty nice.

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Day 3

On our way out of the area, we stopped at the bakery where we bought a bread that tasted a lot like dirt.  We might have found some pogaca (bread that is cooked in ashes), but we aren’t sure.  But, it was good once you got over the initial surprise of the earthy taste.

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While munching our bread, we made our way to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia.  On the drive, we discovered that Slovenia does not have a huge population despite being a good-sized country.  Ljubljana only has about 300,000 people, so it really did not feel like a large, bustling capital.  Upon arriving, we made our way to Neboticnik skyscraper to enjoy the views of the city while having a barley coffee and some lemonade which turned out to be straight lemon juice.

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After gagging down the lemon juice, we walked into the old town and saw several sites such as bridges (Dragon Bridge), old buildings, and the river.

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It was all nice, but nothing was overwhelmingly exciting.  We decided to try a dumpling place for our final Slovenian meal.  We had some plum brandy, ajdovi zganci (buckwheat spoonbread with sour milk), and cottage cheese dumplings.  For dessert, we tried an orange and dark chocolate dumpling and a white chocolate coconut dumpling.  It was all very good, but it was so hot outside that we were ready to move on!

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We got back in the car and drove for a few hours to get to Croatia.  Our first stop was Rovijn where it was even hotter!!  We walked along the harbor into the old town and were treated to really nice views along the way.

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We walked up the cute, winding streets to a church overlooking the sea and through other narrow streets to a tiny art district that had a small gallery with insect paintings (perfect for one member of our group!) on our way to the port.

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We saw some jellyfish and fish in the water around the boats, and everything was very cute, but when we could take the heat and blazing sun no longer, we found a spot for dinner on a shady street.  We tried medica (honey liquour) and biska (mistletoe liquour).  Both were good, but the honey was better as my husband liked to point out since he ordered that one!  We also tried Istrian pasta with shrimp, sea bass and truffle pasta with Istrian ham as well as a local wine.

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Everything was very good, but the heat was unbearable as it felt like 102 degrees with no escape to air conditioning possible.  We left Rovijn and drove to our overnight apartment which was situated on a large farm property.  It was like an oasis in the middle of nowhere because it was impeccable inside and had air conditioning.  It even had a trampoline which was a big hit with our youngest!

Day 4  

Today, we made our way to the Croatian island of Mali Losinj.  We drove to the ferry and took that across to the start of the island chain.

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We had nice views throughout the drive, and once we arrived in Mali and got checked in, we were ready to find some lunch.  We found a really nice place on a side street of the port area.

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We started with some local cheese and bread along with a local beer and white wine called Malvazija.  Then for our main course, we had buzara mussels (a special broth that the mussels are cooked in), pasticada (marinated beef with gnocchi), and truffle pasta.  We decided to finish with a local dessert which was a sweet ravioli with a berry sauce.  It was really a nice meal.

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After lunch, we went to the island’s aromatic garden.  Due to the summer temperatures, most of the plants were not blooming, but you could still get a hint of the smell.  There were some sheep at the garden, and the kids enjoyed petting them.

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After the heat of the garden, we were ready to jump into the sea to cool down.  We found a nice, shaded beach, but while it was beautiful, the water was still a bit chilly.  So, since we didn’t want to get all the way in and swim, we spent a lot of time looking at the sea life around the rocks near the shoreline.  The kids had a great time picking up tons of hermit crabs and letting them crawl all over them.  The water was clear enough to see them easily and to see other fish, urchins and flora on the rocks.

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After cleaning up from the beach, we went to dinner at the port.  We had some pag skir (sheep cheese) and both medica (honey liquour) and loza (grape liquour).  The boys tried some seafood pasta and calamari while the girls went vegetarian.  The food was okay.

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After dinner, we walked along the port and found a giant crab in the water near the boats as well as several smaller ones on the dock steps.  We got some ice cream which was pretty good and watched a show in the main area with baton twirlers and a concert band playing lots of recognizable classics.  It was a lot of fun as the weather was perfect and many of people of all ages were out having fun and dancing at the concert.  While no one really wanted to leave, we had an early day planned the next day in order to beat the heat, so we needed to get to sleep.

Day 5

We managed to make it out early to walk the Path of Vitality from Mali Losinj to Veli Losinj, the next island.  The path was a nice, albeit hot, walk along the shoreline and through some forest areas.  Veli was a cute little port area with some historic buildings.

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From there, we walked a bit further to an even smaller fishing village called Rovenska.

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By this point, it was time to walk back and try to cool off a little before going to lunch at the port.  We found a nice place serving local beer and Teran (local red wine), though it was so hot, I’m not sure how we managed to drink it!  For our meal, we had the sheep cheese followed by mussels buzara, fried calamari and a four-mushroom pasta.  Dessert was a really nice trifle of figs, prosecco, mascarpone cheese and cookies.

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In the afternoon, we walked to a different beach.  Though we did find some crabs there, it wasn’t quite as fun as the one from the day before.  It was nice to have a chance to cool off though.

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After cleaning up, we went to dinner at the port where we had white wine, Hugo Spritz (this is my new summer drink of choice!), medica and sheep cheese.  Our main meal was truffle suplice (pasta), pasta with scampi and caviar and some pizza.  We finished with a cherry brandy called Maraschino (really nice).

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After dinner, we walked along the port and realized they were having a maritime festival.  So, we grabbed an ice cream and watched a few of the acts including some traditional dancers accompanied by a traditional bagpiper and some accapella singers.  We watched the sun set over the harbor before heading to bed.

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Day 6

Today, it was time for us to leave the islands and head back to the mainland.  On our way back to the ferry dock, we saw a ton of Griffon vultures flying in the air.  They are endangered, and this is one of the last places that they can be found in Croatia, so it was really cool to see so many.

After making our way back to the mainland, we began our drive south toward Split.  On the way, we made a stop at Krka National Park.  We enjoyed a nice hike to view the Skradinski waterfall.  The area along the way was pretty with lots of little streams, falls and lakes filled with fish, ducks and dragonflies.  At the waterfall, we even saw a small snake in a little stream.

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After the park, we drove the rest of the way into Split.  The city was much bigger and had more of a ritzy, party vibe.  We went to a ridiculously expensive restaurant by mistake, so we just ordered some appetizers and went to walk along the port past all the big yachts.

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Day 7

Today began bright and early with an hour-long speed ferry to Bol on Brac Island.  After arriving, we walked along the port and the promenade to the dive shop that we would be using for the day’s activities.  We took a boat across the channel to a bay where our two divers went on a dive and the other two of us went snorkeling.  There were lots of sea cucumbers and small fish as well as some vegetation to be seen from the surface.  The divers saw an octopus.

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After an hour or so in the water, we took the boat back to Bol where we enjoyed lunch on the beach.  Our youngest played in the water while we ate a cheese board appetizer.  For the main course, we had some really good scampi gyoza and scallops in cheese as well as some vegetable risotto.  To cap off the meal, we tried Rogac (carob liquour) and Orahovica (walnut liquour).

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Then, it was back on the boat to go to a different bay for another snorkeling and dive session.  This time, the divers saw 3 octopi, scorpion fish, nudibranchs and fire worms.  Snorkeling revealed more interesting fish and really huge sea cucumbers as well as a glimpse of two nudibranchs.

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After returning to Bol, we made our way back to Split via the ferry and to a late dinner where we had Hugo Spritz and wine, truffle pasta, clams buzara and sea bass.  For dessert, we tried a filled pancake and a Snicker ball.

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Day 8

We decided to sleep in this morning and go to the beach for an hour and a half mid-morning.  It was so incredibly hot outside that it was just nice to stand in the water.

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In the afternoon, we braved the heat to go to the old town of Split.  It was a bit interesting because from the outside you only see the wall of a city, so we didn’t expect there to be an entire city behind the walls.  It was quite large, and there were a lot of shops and restaurants hidden behind the walls.  We saw an old bell tower, palace, town hall, town squares and winding streets.

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After wandering around for a while, we got some dinner which was okay.  We had scampi buzara, but we didn’t really enjoy having to shell everything, and there wasn’t actually much food there.  We did try some Dalmatian style Swiss chard and potato dish.

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After dinner, we went to the other side of the harbor and walked past all the fancy yachts.  Some of them were unbelievable.

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Day 9

We started early this morning in order to enter Plitvice National Park as all of the later time slots were already booked.  We walked Trail C through the upper and lower lakes of the park.  There were tons of waterfalls and clear turquoise water everywhere.  It was very pretty.  We even saw a little nature-lots of fish and a mouse.  We walked for an hour along the lower lakes before taking a boat on the large lake to the upper lakes.  Then, we walked for another hour or so before grabbing a quick lunch and taking the bus back to the entrance.

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After the park, we drove into our destination for the day-Rastoke.  Rastoke is a city on a river with a bunch of waterfalls.  We decided to walk around Rastoke in the afternoon.  We started by walking along the river to see several of the falls.  The path was so hot, it felt like we were cooking.

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We decided to go into the middle of the village to visit the museum.  We saw an old mill and an old washing machine.

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We saw several falls viewpoints and a cotton/textile museum.

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We walked through the little fairy garden, and the boys went to explore the cave/canyon, but it was just so miserably hot that we decided to go to dinner early just to get some drinks.

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For dinner, we had some Croatian beer (Ozujsko) and wine from Slunj (the city we were staying in).  We tried a local cheese platter.  None of the food was too exciting, but one person did get bear meat goulash, and we tried potatoes from the dome (peka-a dish which is slow cooked under a clay dome).  For the dessert, we tried something called Miller’s cake (a polenta base and a cream top) and a cheese strudel.  We also tried a liqueur made from quince, but really, it was just too hot for anything.

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Day 10

Today, we said goodbye to Croatia and made our way to Budapest, Hungary.  As we arrived in the city, we had a great view of the Parliament building coming across a bridge and past Margaret’s Island.  We found a spot for lunch-Gundel’s.  Apparently, the founder was quite a revolutionary on the food scene when he started it in the early 1900’s.  We started with a paprika, onion and cottage cheese spread with bread and had a nice, although hot, lunch of chicken paprikash and a paprika sausage dish along with a local IPA.  It was all good, but the dessert was really nice.  We had Gundel pancake (a pancake with ground nuts and orange filling) and Somloi galuska (a trifle cake).  We also tried apricot Palinka, a Hungarian spirit.

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After lunch, we walked to Hero’s Square where we also saw a really cool castle in the distance.

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From there, we drove down Andrassy Avenue to our apartment.  After getting settled and learning we did not have air conditioning (a major disappointment), we went out to see the Opera house, St. Stephen’s Basilica and a nice avenue heading toward the Chain Bridge over the Danube.

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Along the Danube, we saw the shoes monument to those shot along the banks of the Danube during WWII.

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From here, we walked to the Parliament building and the Justice building.  During the walk, my oldest taught me all about the Hungarian Revolution of 1956 which she had researched for school during the past year.

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After our walk around the city admiring the statues and architecture, we went to dinner in what seriously felt like an oven.  The meal was inside a slightly underground restaurant with no windows or anything for ventilation.  I really thought we were going to melt.  The food was good though.  We had some local beer and hortobagyi palascinta (a chicken stuffed pancake) to start.  Then, we tried stuffed cabage rolls, rantott sajt (fried cheese), mushroom paprika and schnitzel.  To finish, we had a sour cherry strudel and chestnut puree which was really nice.  We also tried Unicum which is another local spirit-interesting taste.

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Day 11

We began the day with an early morning walk to Dohany Street Synagogue.  Along the way, we stopped and got some pogacsa from a bakery.  They were kind of like small biscuits.

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After the history lesson the other day, our oldest asked if it would be possible to walk to the Magyar radio station, the site of the student protests and massacre in 1956 during the revolution.  As it’s always great when there is a chance to see something that the kids have learned about for school, we made our way there.  It is really just a marker on a building, but it was good to incorporate it into the itinerary.  Next, we went to the City Market, a large indoor market filled with various stalls.  We spent a little time looking at some souvenir items and then moved on.

We walked across the Danube using a cool looking bridge on our way to Buda Castle.

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After taking the funicular up to the castle, we had some nice views of the city.

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We walked around the area of the castle and went into a gallery.  We learned about the history of Budapest which was interesting.

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From there, we walked to Fisherman’s Bastion.  There we saw Matthius Church which was very ornate and had a colorful, mosaic roof.

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The Bastions were pretty and interesting looking.  It kind of looked like an area of Disneyland.

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We went back down on the funicular and across the Danube to lunch.  We found a place with tables along the street and sat down to some local beer and cold raspberry soup (which was nice considering how hot it was).  Then, we had turos csusza (noodles with cottage cheese) and kaposztas testza (noodles with cabbage) which was really good.  We also tried mushroom paprikash and beef stew.  For dessert, we had Somloi galuska.

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After lunch, we went to St. Stephen’s Basilica to see the inside.  It had a nice dome ceiling and lots of heavy marble.  Interestingly, we discovered that it also contains the mummified fist of Stephen, the first king of Hungary, in a glass case.

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In the evening, we went to dinner where we had goulash soup and a garlic soup with langos (fried bread).  They were both good.  Then, the main dish came, and I can’t even begin to describe how awful it was-spaetzle with scrambled egg.  I do not recommend.  On the other hand, my husband liked his Hungarian stew and local Chardonnay.

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Day 12

Today, we headed to Slovakia.  After all the heat in the other countries, we were ready to get to a country where the temperatures promised to not rise much above 80 degrees.  As we made our way out of Hungary, we enjoyed the fields of sunflowers that went on as far as the eye could see (hard to really capture in a picture).

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Our initial impressions of Slovakia were a bit mixed.  We drove through a lot of little, shanty looking villages on our way to Brezno, where we were staying.

Our first stop was a restaurant recommended by our apartment host in the city.  The restaurant was up a hill in the mountains and had nice views.  We started the meal with a fruity Radler beer that almost everyone in the place was drinking and a Czech beer along with a cheese platter that was delicious.  It had smoked cheese knots, garlic cheese strips, paprika cheese strips and regular cheese pieces.  For our meal, we had bryndzova halusky (dumplings (almost spaetzle like) in a cheese sauce), nemiakovy placky (potato pancakes), polievka (garlic soup), vyprazany syr (fried cheese), and a porkloin stuffed with potato and wrapped in bacon.  To finish the meal, we tried a Slovakian digestif called Slivovica.

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We also bought a box of Slovakian cookies at the restaurant shop.

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After dropping everything at our apartment, we went to Bystrianska Cave.  It was a smallish cave, but it had a variety of interesting formations.

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In the evening, we went to dinner at a restaurant with a nice hillside view.  We tried Kofola soda, potato pancake, sztrapacska (dumplings with cabbage) and bryndzove halusky (the cheese dumplings).  We also tried a tatratea digestif.  It is a tea based herbal liqueur.  It had an interesting taste.  For dessert, we had a pancake stuffed with ice cream.

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Day 13

Today was an exhausting and physically demanding day.  We began at 8:45am on the Chopok trail in the Low Tatras National Park.

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For one hour, we walked about 400 meters straight up the side of a mountain.  There were some nice wildflowers along the way, but the path was hard and a bit scary as it felt like you might fall backwards at times.

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At the top of that mountain, we stopped for a snack and to rest.  We had some apple strudel and a dumpling filled with jam and sprinkled with chocolate.  It was nice, but we had to move on to the next phase.

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For the next hour and a half, we gained another 500 meters or so.  It was hard and straight up but through a pretty wooded area.  The last 100 meters was pure rock going straight up which was hard.

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At the top, we had lunch of cabbage soup and potato pancake, snitzel and fried cheese.  We had some beer and Kofola soda, too.  To reward ourselves (we thought the worst was over-laughing hysterically), we got another dumpling filled with jam, but this one was covered in vanilla sauce.

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The next stage of the trail was a rocky path on the edge of the mountain.  It took us several hours, and, at times, it was pretty scary (it’s never great when hiking to wonder how many people may have died on the trail).  The views were nice, and there was hardly anyone else on the trail after a certain point.  Toward the end of this section, the path went upward which was exhausting after already hiking for several hours.

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Finally, we reached the point of descent, but the path was awful.  It was a dried-up water flow bed with tons of rocks. The flowers around the area were nice, but we had to watch where we stepped, and by that point we were so tired, we barely noticed the plants.  It took us about 2 hours to get down the mountain.

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The end of the hike was nice.  It passed through a forested area with little waterfalls and a stream.  At 7:30pm, we exited the forest, and we were so happy to finish!

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We made it to a restaurant about an hour before closing, and we were thrilled to sit down and eat.  We had some Slovakian wine, the cheese sauce dumplings and a dumpling (like pierogi) filled with blueberries and topped with tons of poppy seeds and melted butter.  It was really good.

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Day 14

We woke and weren’t crippled from our hike, so the day was off to a good start!  We got on the road early to visit Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia.  We saw several points of interest there such as the old town hall and square, St. Michael’s Gate, the Blue Church and St. Martin’s Cathedral.

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We had lunch in the city of sheep cheese dumplings, halusky and fried cheese.  We had a Slovakian beer and Borovika, a juniper spirit.

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We stopped at a bakery in the city and got Bratislavsky Rozok (walnut and poppy seed filled pastries).  We also tried some little pastries filled with jam and cheese.

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Then, we hit the road again to get to Dresden, Germany where we planned to spend the night.  Once in Dresden, we went dinner at a restaurant on the main square where we had some Weisen beer, pretzel, cheese spaetzle with fried onions and schnitzel.  The meal was really good, but as a glorious end to the trip, they had our favorite German dessert which we haven’t had in almost 5 years-shredded pancake.  For those that can remember back to our first trip post, we almost lost our minds over shredded pancake at a mountain top restaurant in the south of Germany.  We had hoped to drive through the town where we had eaten it during this trip in order to get some, but before we left home, we found out that the restaurant had closed.  So, you can imagine how excited we were to find it in Dresden.  And, despite the fact that it was raining as we huddled under our umbrellaed table to eat it, it was delicious!

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Day 15

Before leaving the city, we took an hour to walk around and see the center of Dresden.  There are some really nice buildings in the city, although they were all apparently destroyed in a bombing toward the end of WWII that also killed 25,000 civilians.  We grabbed some pastry while enjoying the sites before getting back on the road to bring the trip to a close.

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After 3 weeks away from home, we were kind of ready to get back.  The trip was a lot of fun, and we always love getting to experience new things together as a family but living out of a suitcase for 3 weeks gets tiring.  Nonetheless, we were really glad to get to experience eastern Europe, and we would definitely consider going back to some of the places we visited in the future (just maybe not during a heat wave)!

Two Days in Tuscany

With a long weekend looming and a guest from out of town visiting, we decided to take advantage of the extra days off and head to Tuscany.  While we had been there before, our guest had not, and so we made plans to fly into Bologna, visit there for a few hours and then spend a couple of days in Florence.  However, life had different plans because our morning flight got canceled which caused us to then only get to Bologna at night.  So, rather than spend any time there, we drove straight on to Florence.

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On our first full day, we started off with a pastry and a cappuccino before heading past the Florence Cathedral on the way to the Galleria dell’Accademia to see the one and only David. He was quite large and really impressive in his degree of detail.

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In addition to the famous statue, we saw many other statues and artworks, including this really pretty tapestry, before leaving the museum and walking to the Palazzo Vecchio for a cannoli, torta del nonno and another cappuccino.

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The torta del nonno was really good!  After the quick break for our feet, we walked across the Ponte Vecchio amid a sea of umbrellas, as it drizzled and was cloudy the entire weekend, before making our way to Pitti Palace.  We walked through the palace exploring the rooms and the artwork and escaping the heaviest of the rain before heading into the Boboli Gardens for a quick walk.

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After the palace and gardens, we made our way to a sidewalk restaurant for lunch.  We had some caprese and Tuscan cheeses before the main course of gnocchi with gorgonzola and walnut sauce, tagliatelle tartufo, tagliatelle porcini and ribollita with some Chianti.

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After lunch, we stopped for a really nice gelato, and then went to rest for a bit before going out to dinner that evening.  Our dinner meal began with some bruschetta before we enjoyed pici cacio e pepe which was so good.  We finished with some tiramisu and cantuccini with vin santo and a little limoncello.  It was a nice meal.

Our second day, we went to see some more famous artwork at the Uffizi Gallery including Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, Caravaggio’s Medusa, and Titian’s Venus of Urbino.

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There were also a lot of sculptures.  It was nice, but really quite big.  After the museum, we decided to see a bit more of Tuscany by heading to Lucca.  The city was nice and had some old world charm, though we struggled to find many food choices for the vegetarian members of our party.  In the end, we settled on buffala and quatro formaggio pizzas.  We spent a couple of hours walking around the city seeing the open squares, small winding streets and cathedrals including one with a wedding taking place.

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After driving back to Florence, we went to dinner in an outside square where we had a little Aperol Spritz and Chianti along with gnocchi and cacio e pepe.

And being that it was our last night, we also had to have another tiramisu as well as a dessert we had never tried- zuccotto florentine which was really good!

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We finished the meal with an amaro del capo and a limoncello.  We walked the meal off a bit, stopped and bought a leather bag, and may or may not have stopped for one final small gelato.

The next day we caught an early flight back home before our waistlines could expand any more.  All in all, while the travel plans and the weather didn’t really cooperate with us, it was a nice, quick trip.  Bellissimo!

I’ll Take a Scotch-Vacation That Is

Last week being our spring break, we decided to head north where the weather was certainly not better than home, but we got to enjoy Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands.

Day 1

We took a morning flight to Edinburgh and made our way into the heart of the city via the tram.  Once there, we went to lunch at a pub where we jumped right in and tried haggis as an appetizer.  Surprisingly, it was really good-just don’t think too hard about what it is.  Surviving that, we got a pint of Scottish beer and vegetarian haggis, neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes) as well as fish and chips for our main meal.  We also decided to try a few whiskies since we were in Scotland after all.  The bartender recommended some that are good for beginners, and also surprisingly, they were good and not too strong for our tastes.  To complete our meal, we had to order sticky toffee pudding as it is a favorite of ours.

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Everything was really good, and with our first meal down, we headed into the old town.  Our first stop was the Scott Monument built for Sir Walter Scott.  Interestingly enough, the monument was not intended to be black, but all the coal that was burned in the city over the years turned it black.

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Our next point of interest was St. Giles Cathedral.  It was quite nice inside with interesting architecture and stained glass.

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From here, we walked to the Writer’s Museum with memorabilia about Walter Scott, Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson-all Scottish writers.

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Then, we walked up the Royal Mile to the Edinburgh Castle and back down.  We stopped in a few shops along the way and took in all the unique people walking the streets.  I truly have never seen so many interesting and unique individuals concentrated in one location before.

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After checking into our apartment, we went to get some dinner at a restaurant around the corner.  There, we had vegetarian wellington, vegan shepherd’s pie and vegetarian haggis.  We all liked it.

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On our way back to the apartment, we stopped at some of the buildings of the University of Edinburgh which was directly across from our apartment.  Then, we headed in for the night to try some of the candies we bought during the day-Edinburgh rock, Scottish tablet, Soor Plooms and some shortbread.  Everything was nice but the tablet sure was sugary!

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Day 2

Today, we started with a big breakfast- a full Scottish which included haggis, eggs, mushrooms, tomato, bread, hashbrown, beans and tattie (potato) scone.  Most of us got the vegetarian version, but one got the regular and it also included black pudding.  We tried a little strawberries and cream tea with it as well.

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After breakfast, we took a taxi to the outskirts of the city to visit Craigmillar Castle.  Some areas are not open to the public, but we walked through what is.  There wasn’t a lot to see, but we did see the room that belonged to Mary Queen of Scots when she recovered from an illness there and the area where her second husband, Lord Darnley, was killed.

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Near the grounds, there was a small nature area that we walked through before getting back into the heart of the city for lunch in another pub.

We began the lunch with Irn Bru sodas for the kids and beer and a hot toddy for the grownups.  We also tried a cheese platter with relishes and oatcakes.  For the main meal, we got the vegetarian bangers and mash, fish and chips, a pork pie and Cullen skink soup which was really good.  For our dessert, we had to try the famed fried Mars bars-if you enjoy fried things, then it wasn’t too shabby.

After lunch, we walked to Holyrood Palace.

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This is where the royal family (as in the British one) stay when they are in Scotland.  We walked through several rooms and saw some “treasures” such as jewelry, swords and mementos.  We also saw the rooms that had belonged to Mary Queen of Scots and Lord Darnley.  We walked out to the abbey ruins on the grounds and the garden.

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Next, we made our way to Holyrood Park where we decided to sit around a lake with tons of swans, gulls, pigeons and ducks for a bit.

On our way back to our apartment, we stopped at the Greyfriar Bobby monument-a tribute to the dog who laid at his master’s grave every night for about 14 years before he died.

We also walked through the graveyard there which is where J.K. Rowling found inspiration for some of her characters’ names in the Harry Potter series.

For dinner, we decided to try a Brazilian place by our apartment.  Let’s just say we weren’t impressed.

Day 3

Today, we headed out of the city to the Highlands, so we grabbed a quick breakfast of cheese and onion pasties and a Scottish pie and got on our bus.

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After driving for a while, our first stop was the small village of Pitlochry where we grabbed a quick snack of a tattie scone roll and caramel slice.

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Back on the road, we drove through the Cairngorms National Park on our way to Inverness and Loch Ness.

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We had a lunch on the edge of the loch of stovies (potato and other veggies stewed and mashed together) before boarding the boat to sail down the loch.

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No sightings of Nessie but we did have some nice views before getting off at Urquhart Castle.  The castle was mainly just ruins, but we were able to walk around the area for a while enjoying some views before heading in the visitor center to watch a short film about the site.

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Once we were back on the bus, we drove toward Ben Nevis-the highest point in Scotland.

We also stopped in Glencoe to see three hills referred to as the sister hills.

The views along the way were very pretty with waterfalls, mountains, hills, lochs, streams, fields and a huge peat bog called Rannoch Moor.

We saw several deer along the way including the Red Deer.  The tour did make a stop to feed some Highland Cows, but as we see them all the time near our home, we decided to watch the lambs in the fields nearby.  They were pretty cute!

On our way back to the city, we drove by Bannock Burn, the battlefield site of Robert the Bruce’s victory against the English, and we could see the site of William Wallace’s victory of Stirling Bridge in the distance.  It was a day of very nice scenery and no less than four rainbows!

Day 4

Breakfast was once again the full Scottish breakfast for most of the family, but I tried the porridge with fruit and honey which was really good along with some blood orange marmalade tea.

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Then, we boarded our next tour which was a shorter day to the Borders in the south of the country.  Unlike the day before, the scenery here consisted of very wide, open, sweeping views.  It was still very hilly, though.  Everything was very green and looked pastoral with all the sheep.  We made a brief stop at what is known as Scott’s view (a place that Sir Walter Scott enjoyed visiting) and then headed into the town of Melrose to see Melrose Abbey.

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Most of the abbey was closed for safety reasons so there wasn’t too much to see, but we had lunch in the town.

After lunch, we made our way to Rosslyn Chapel.  The chapel is quite small, but it has so many carvings and details.  The carvings are very symbolic and pretty.

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We stopped in the museum café to have some scones with jam and cream before driving back to Edinburgh.

We went to dinner which was not that special, but we did have a cider and a whisky flight which was nice, and we tried cranachan (berries and cream) for dessert which was good.

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Day 5

Today was our final tour out of the city.  Our first stop was the Kelpies which is a large metal monument to the horses that used to work pulling the boats down the canal in the area as well as the mythical creatures known as kelpies that take the form of a horse.

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From there, we made our way to Loch Lomond for a cruise on the loch.  The views were pretty, and there were lots of nice “homes” along the shoreline.  These “homes” were large estates and castles-some privately owned, some hotels and some owned by foundations.  There was also a huge snowy mountain in the distance.

After the loch cruise, we went into a small town where we got some lunch of Scotch Broth and some whisky fudge.

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After lunch, we drove through the Trossachs National Park.  The views were really great with hills, mountains, forested roads, lochs, streams and fields with tons of sheep and lambs.  It was very enjoyable to just look out the window!

Our next stop was Stirling Castle which had some interesting bits of history as it was built by Mary Queen of Scots’s father for her mother, and it was where her son was baptized.

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I really enjoyed seeing the Stirling Faces which were the old wooden carvings that used to be on the ceiling of one of the rooms as well as the kitchens where they had information on things that they used to serve including recipes.

While we were at the castle, we got caught in a hail/snow storm that was immediately followed by full sun.  Once the sun came back out, we were able to get some good views of the William Wallace monument at Stirling Bridge as well as a statue commemorating Robert the Bruce.

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With a few minutes to spare before our tour bus headed out, we ran down into the town of Stirling to see a unicorn (national animal of Scotland) statue which used to signal the site of a royal market and a cool old church with graveyard.

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Our final stop of the day was a photo stop at the three bridges in Edinburgh that span the Firth of Forth-the Queens Ferry Crossing, the Forth Road Bridge and the Forth Bridge.  Interestingly, each was built in a different century-the 19th, 20th and 21st.

After returning, we went to dinner where some of us got things we had before while others got sausages and mash (both vegetarian and regular).  We also tried a couple of whiskies, a beer and treacle for dessert.

Day 6

Our final day was a rainy one, but we made it to Deacon’s House Café for a breakfast of scones with cream and jam and an orange cake which was good.

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We also learned a little about the café.  It was once the workshop of Deacon Brodie who was a cabinet maker by day and a burglar by night.  He is said to be the inspiration for the story of Jekyll and Hyde.  After breakfast, we went on a tour of the underground vaults of Edinburgh which was both a bit interesting and a bit spooky.  Apparently, many criminals and homeless used to live in the vaults centuries ago.  At one point, the city was on fire for many days and all of the people living underground died because they were trapped, and the stone walls heated up.  Therefore, it is thought to be very haunted but really it was just hard to imagine people living in those conditions.

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After the tour, it was still raining, so we rode the hop on and off bus around the city for an hour or so to take in some more views of the city.

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We then found a place for lunch where we had vegetarian haggis and cock a leekie terrine.  We also tried two whisky flights-a mild one and a seaweed and smoke flight which was pretty interesting and good.  For dessert, we tried a rhubarb cranachan and toffee pudding.

Finally, the rain stopped so we walked to St. Cuthbert’s cathedral.  We couldn’t go inside, but we walked around the graveyard.

Then, we collected our bags and made our way to the airport.  However, we were in for a surprise when they canceled our flight an hour and a half before departure.  After struggling to get everything sorted, we made our way to an airport hotel feeling a bit frustrated.  Interestingly enough though, once in our room, we saw a huge double rainbow that was so bright and vivid it was unreal!

I wish I could tell you that the rainbow signaled that all would be fine-good luck ahead.  Unfortunately, the next day we got a call that our dog was unwell at the boarders with a herniated disk, our daughter threw up 7 times from the moment we stepped onto the skywalk to board the plane until the car ride home from the airport (that’s only about a 3-hour time span) and the windshield of our month-old car got chipped on the way to pick up our animals.  But we arrived home in one piece, and we all had a nice time on our trip, so we can’t complain too much!  Until next time!

Exploring Egypt and the Ancient World

The Netherlands in February is cold and dreary, so when it came time to plan our February break, we wanted to go somewhere warm and sunny.  We couldn’t think of a better place than one that we had all been wanting to visit for many years-Egypt! 

When we arrived at night and walked out of the airport, we knew we had made a good choice because it was warm outside.  We were taken to our hotel, and once we got into our rooms, we found that we had an amazing view of the Nile and the city.

Day 1

The next morning, we woke to find that our alarm did not go off, so we jumped up and quickly got ready and ate something-not the best first meal because of the rush.  But, we met our guide on time and headed to Memphis, a 5,000-year-old city that was an ancient capital of Egypt.  Here, we saw a small sphinx, several different pieces with hieroglyphics and a mumification bed (where they would lay the body and drain bodily fluids). 

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And then, we saw the giant statue of Ramses II.  The amount of detail on it was so impressive especially considering it was carved into a massive red granite block and made 3,200 years ago!

Our next stop was Saqqara where we toured the complex of the burial site and learned a lot about the features of such a complex such as the funerary temple, the mummification temple and the causeway.  We saw the first step pyramid (built 4,600) years ago and went into the tomb of King Teti.  The tomb is difficult to enter as you descend downward bent over because the ceiling is low.  Inside the tomb, we saw the first burial texts (hieroglyphics) that were later featured in all tombs. 

In another area of Saqqara, we saw the tomb of a member of nobility built as a mastaba-square tomb.  The ornate and intricate carvings depicted so much, particularly scenes of daily life, and the detail was amazing.  There was actually some color left in the carvings though they are 4,300 years old!

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Next, we went to the Great Pyramids which are around 4,500 years old and are the last of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  We walked around all three pyramids and learned a lot about them.  It was interesting to see the size of the stones used to build them. 

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We made our way to a restaurant overlooking the pyramids for our lunch.  We had some aish baladi bread that was being made on site by an older woman.  The bread was very soft and chewy. 

We also had some quinoa salad with hummus.  The meal featured a pyramid shaped mound of rice with veggie tajine and moussaka tajine.  We also tried some karkadeh tea which is made from hibiscus.  We finished with some traditional rice pudding.  Everything was really good and very filling. 

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After lunch, we went to see the Great Sphinx and went to the only surviving Valley Temple (mummification tomb) of ancient Egypt.  We learned all about mummification and the Sphinx before returning to the hotel. 

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We tried a national dish of Egypt for dinner-koshary.  They have restaurants that only serve koshary because the dish consists of many components and the best koshary comes from restaurants that specialize in only that because they can take the time to make all of the components well.  The dish has pasta, lentils, chickpeas, a tomato-based sauce and fried onions.  We had a fun demonstration from one of the workers on how to put the dish together.  It was delicious!  He also gave us some kind of chip to eat with our dinner, and we tried om ali (a very milky bread pudding) for dessert before heading back to the hotel for the night. 

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Day 2

This morning, we had a more leisurely breakfast of ta’amiyya (falafel), foul medames (smashed and whole fava beans), an olive pastry and fiteer bread.  Everything was pretty good.  

We met up with our guide to head to the Citadel where we learned a lot about the Mamelukes (former slaves who ended up running the country) and Mohammed Ali (not the boxer, but rather an Egyptian ruler).  

We toured the large mosque and saw the tomb of Mohammed Ali. 

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Then, we moved to the Mosque of Sultan Hassan.  It had some really pretty design elements.  We went into the mausoleum and there was a Sheikh inside who sang part of a prayer for us.  It was really cool to hear in the room. 

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Next, we visited another mosque across from Sultan Hassan’s that was built by a woman.  There were a lot of royal tombs inside including one for the last king of Egypt and the last Shah of Iran.  Cairo is called the city of a thousand minarets referring to the number of mosques that they have.  Indeed, there were so many more than what we saw, and they all come with their own design elements and style based on when they were constructed.  

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After the mosques, we went to lunch where we had stuffed vine leaves, bessara (fava bean dip), spicy cheese dip and tahini with bread.  We also tried some lentil soup.  The main dish was molokhiyya which is a soup made from jute leaves, okra tajine and spinach tajine. It was all very tasty.

After lunch, we visited the Egyptian Museum.  Out front, they had a pretty display of papyrus and lotus, the two symbols representing Upper and Lower Egypt. 

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Inside, they had an amazing amount of 3,000-4,000-year-old artifacts.  We saw some really amazing statues including a life like wooden one, a huge one and some strangely shaped ones.  We also saw the mummies of some noble people. 

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And, the crème de la crème-the treasure of King Tut’s tomb including his death mask.  It was really cool to see!  We even got to see the box housing the vessels that contained his organs. 

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After the museum, we went to Ancient Cairo to walk through the Khan El Khalili Bazar where, luckily, the merchants were not too pushy.  The bazar was a neat experience especially on the quiet streets with all the Islamic architecture as a backdrop.  We walked the streets looking at mosques, various dwellings and water dispensaries.  We loved seeing the kids on bikes and mopeds with giant wooden trays on their heads loaded with breads-a real feat in balance!

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On the way back to the hotel, we drove by a huge daily market.  The size was incredible considering it happens every day but Friday (weekend there). 

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We made our way to dinner where we had falafel, bessara, tahini, grape leaves and rice stuffed pigeon.  Pigeon really has very little meat.  We had another rice pudding and om ali for dessert. 

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Day 3

After sleeping in a bit, we went down to breakfast where someone important must have been eating because there were secret service type agents all over the breakfast room.  When we finished and were leaving the hotel, there was also a huge convoy of cars out front with special Egyptian forces escorts. 

We made our way to the Civilizations Museum.  The highlight there was about 21 royal mummies including Nefertari and Hatshepsut.  The preservation after 3,000 years is unbelievable-some even have hair in good condition!  We also saw some amazing artifacts including a 35,000-year-old skeleton.  They had some nice Islamic architecture designs and a tent like case that was placed on camels’ backs and used to carry the curtains for Mecca that were made in Egypt. 

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In the afternoon, we flew to Luxor where we had another amazing view of the Nile. 

The hotel had a Lebanese restaurant inside an open courtyard, so we ate there.  While we at some hummus, muhmarra (pepper dip), tahini, samousek and grape vines, we watched some dance performers.  After the main dish of spinach tajine and some fatteh, our son was invited to perform onstage with the dancers.  That was fun! 

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After dinner, we walked to some artisan shops in our hotel and while it was a bit uncomfortable with the pressure to buy, the oil guy did give us some testers which smelled nice. 

Day 4

The next day, we woke up to a view of hot air balloons flying over Luxor. 

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We had some eggplant, bread and foul (fava beans) for breakfast before boarding a small boat on the Nile to take us to the other bank.

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On the other side, we made our way to the Valley of the Kings.  On the way, we drove through the agricultural area and saw these sun-dried tomatoes being dried. 

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We drove by the Valley of the Workers (the tombs of those that worked on the Kings’ tombs) before arriving at the Valley of the Kings. 

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We got to see three tombs while we were there- Ramses I, Ramses III and Ramses IV.  They were so colorful and elaborate.  It was really hard to remember that they were 3,000 years old.

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Next, we went to the Temple of Hatshepsut who was a female pharaoh.  She has a very interesting story, but basically, she ruled after her husband died by sending her stepson (the rightful heir) away to be educated.  When he grew up and returned, he had her temple desecrated (she was already dead) because he realized she had taken the throne from him.  This temple, which was simply used to mummify her body and is not her tomb, is what remains and it’s hard to imagine what it would have been like if it hadn’t been destroyed. 

After leaving the temple, we stopped at an alabaster shop for a demonstration on how they turn the alabaster into various products. 

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Then, the Valley of the Queens where we saw the tombs of Queen Titi and her two sons that died at 14 and 16.  There is also the mummified 6-month fetus that she was carrying when her sons died and lost due to the grief.  Again, the colors and details were amazing.

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We made a quick stop at the Colossi of Memnon which stand at the entrance to what was once another pharaoh’s mortuary temple.  The temple and much of the other statues were destroyed in an ancient earthquake and the Greeks found these statues and named them this after the noises they make when the wind blows through them.

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We had lunch at a nearby restaurant that served hummus, muhamarra, lentil soup and vegetable tajine along with some guava juice.

After lunch, we visited the Temple of Karnak which was just so huge and impressive with hieroglyphics everywhere.  Again, we were just amazed at the level of preservation after 3,000 years. 

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We stopped at a papyrus shop for a demonstration of how papyrus paper is made which was interesting, and we looked around at the different art they make on papyrus. 

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Our final stop was the Temple of Luxor which was also huge.  We saw the Avenue of Sphinxes and many interesting statues and carvings. 

Back at the hotel, we took in the views of the sun setting on the Nile while enjoying some juice drinks like strawberry juice and lemon juice. 

Back in our room, we sat on the balcony and watched a bunch of bats flying around which was fun.

Day 5

Our day was mostly spent flying from Luxor back to Cairo and then from Cairo to Sharm-el-Sheikh.  We then drove for an hour or so through the Sinai Desert on our way to Dahab.  Our day never really ended because at 11:30pm, we were picked up by our guide to head to Mt. Sinai.

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Day 6

The day began at 11:30pm the day before as we drove through the desert toward Mt. Sinai.  We reached the mountain (also referred to as Moses Mountain) at about 1am and began hiking at 1:30am.  That’s right-we hiked up the mountain all night with a Bedouin guide.  It took us about three and a half hours with frequent breaks to climb up the rocky sand slopes and the 750 steep rock steps to reach the summit which was about a 6-mile hike. 

Most of the journey we were by ourselves as the majority of people rode camels to the bottom of the steps.  One of the best parts was resting on a rocky wall and looking up to the ridge above us where the camel silhouettes could be made out against the dark, starry sky.  It’s a shame we couldn’t get a picture. 

Once we made it to the steps, everyone was together, and most people had to take frequent breaks to rest.  We made it to the summit about an hour before sunrise, and very few people were there at that point.  It was very cold, but one of the Bedouins was nice enough to let us sit in his tent to stay warm.  We made a little conversation, and it was much appreciated shelter.  Close to sunrise, we left the tent to see the area where Moses’s cave is and where he received the Ten Commandments.  Then, we watched the sun appear on the horizon and make its rapid ascent up to the skyline. 

After the sun was up, it was time to tackle the descent which was a bit of a killer on the knees.  The rocks and sand were actually quite slippery, so you had to be very careful.  I may have ended up on my backside one time, but we saw someone else really wipe out closer to the bottom.  Once we made it to the bottom, we had a quick stop to learn about the monastery that houses the descendent of the burning bush as well as other artifacts.  Unfortunately, the monastery was closed on this day, so we couldn’t go in. 

After this, we made our way back to Dahab where we got on a private boat to go diving and snorkeling.  While my husband and daughter dove twice, my son and I snorkeled the reef.  There were many colorful fish and lots of coral.  We even saw a clam with a blue inside.  They served us lunch on the boat of rice and vegetables.  The ride back to the harbor was very peaceful and the water was pretty.  We really enjoyed soaking up the sun!

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Back at the hotel, we cleaned up and went to a buffet dinner where we had various grains and vegetables and a rather large assortment of Egyptian desserts which were very good.

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Day 7

After all we had done over the last few days, this day was for pure relaxation.  We had breakfast of foul, cheese spreads, bread and vegetables before heading to the pool where we stayed for the whole day.

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There were really nice views of the Red Sea.

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We ate lunch by the pool, as well, where we had hummus, tahini and mutable (eggplant dip) with bread.  After finally extracting our son from the pool and getting cleaned up, we went to dinner where we again had rice and an assortment of vegetables.  There were again some Egyptian desserts including some little cookies and phyllo triangles in honey which were nice. 

After a final day of flying, we arrived back home.  Our trip was just what we wanted-amazing history, famous landmarks, some adventure and relaxation under the sun and warmth (writing this as the snow comes down in the Netherlands, I might be crying a little).  We feel really lucky to have been able to make this trip, and I’m sure we will all remember it for the rest of our lives. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Holy Lands

As 2022 came to an end and 2023 began, we had the opportunity to travel to the Holy Lands to experience a trip filled with history, religion and culture.  After much debate over the prudence of the decision to travel to an area that is often portrayed in the media as ripe with strife and war, we hired a travel company and jetted off to Amman, Jordan.

As we arrived very late at night, we didn’t have much time in Amman, but we did have a nice view of the city from our hotel.

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Day 1

Bright and early the morning after arriving, we began the culinary portion of our journey with a Jordanian breakfast of hummus, baba ghanoush, moutabel (baba ghanoush with yogurt mixed in) and muhammara (roasted walnut and red pepper spread) with pita bread as well as mujaddal (very salty stringy cheese), labneh (a cheese spread), manakish (like a pizza with herbs/seasonings only), mo’ajjanat (bread stuffed with cheese), potatoes and fruit pastry.

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After what was much more food than I have eaten for breakfast in a long time, we were taken out of the city to Mt. Nebo which is the mountain where Moses died after only being allowed to look into the Holy Lands.

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The views from the mountain were nice and most of the points in the Holy Lands are only a few miles away.  Though the weather was a bit hazy, we were still able to see the Dead Sea and areas like Jerusalem.

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The mountain features an iron serpent and cross monument to commemorate the story of Moses putting a snake on a pole as God directed.

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There was also a small church on the spot with some mosaic floors.

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After this, we made our way to St. George’s Monastery where we got to see the large mosaic floor depicting the map of the Holy Lands from the 6th century.  This is actually the oldest known map of the Holy Lands.  They had many beautiful mosaics in the church.

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After leaving the church, we drove quite a while through small cities and the desert to get to Karak Castle which is the remains of a fortress from ancient people that was used extensively by the Crusaders.

There were many interesting rooms where the residents made olive oil and bread.  There was also a prison. 20221229_131051[3914]20221229_131045[3913]20221229_132722[3917]20221229_133122[3918]

We had a buffet lunch at the castle grounds which included tabbouleh, Arabic salad, hummus and several yogurt-based dips.  There was also vegetable sambosa (a triangular dough stuffed with vegetables), stewed tomatoes and vegetables with rice and kibbeh in a yogurt sauce (kibbeh is a breaded minced meat ball that is fried, and if you were at our wedding years ago, you might have had it there as it is eaten in Brasil).  For a drink, we tried a limonana which is a lemon and mint concoction.  Dessert was hareeseh or haresih.  It was a nice cake.

After that lunch, we fell asleep on the long drive through the desert to reach Petra, but I woke a few times to see some of the tent villages and sheep herders on the way.

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We made a quick stop to see one of the springs that was created when Moses hit his staff on the rock as described in the Bible.

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Then, on to our hotel where they welcomed us with some Bedouin tea and Jordanian dates.

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There wasn’t much time until dinner where we had a really nice meal of lentil soup, falafel, galayet (stewed tomato dish), muffarak batata (eggs and potato hash), strips of pita style bread dipped in olive oil and za’atar spice, taboon bread (seriously delicious!), musakan (chicken on a bed of seasoned rice and crispy onions) and mansaf (the national dish of Jordan) which is lamb meat cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt served on rice and with a yogurt sauce.  We tried some Jordanian wine and beer with it and finished the meal with kanafeh (a type of pastry with cream or cheese topped with a spun pastry and a syrup-kind of hard to describe).  The one that we had was cream.  Everything was very good!

As we were leaving the restaurant, we got to watch a local artisan making sand art using the stones found in the area near Petra.  He had learned the trade from generations of his family.  It was really incredible to watch the sand transform into a picture.

Day 2

We spent our second day in the Petra area which was once the home to the Nabateans.  We walked for 3 hours with our guide looking at the sites of Petra.  We saw a lot of tombs including the famous Treasury, the Dijn Blocks and the Street of Facades with 4 large tombs called the Royal Tombs.

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We also saw the theater, the great temple used by the Romans and the temple of Pharoh’s daughter.

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We learned a lot of history about the place and about the people that lived there and took in the architectural feats including the water system and the sculpted designs (I especially liked the remains of a sculpture featuring camels and herders).

After our walk with the guide, we grabbed some falafel sandwiches and some limonana before climbing a lot of steps past a lot of Bedouin stalls to reach the monastery which was a Nabatean tomb that Jesus supposedly stayed in when traveling through the area.

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Then, we walked to an old church site that had a lot of mosaic floors before making our way up close and into the Royal Tombs.

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After the tombs, it was time to make our way back through the siq (the opening in the rocks that leads to the large tombs) to head to another area called Little Petra.  This area is where the caravans used to stay away from the main “city” of Petra.  We saw the openings in the rocks that were the rooms they would stay in and the sinks that they would use to clean up in.

It was a long but interesting day, so when we got back to the hotel, we had a snack of arrays (like a quesadilla with lamb meat that was very good) and cheese.  After resting for a while, we had a smaller dinner with fattet salad (salad with pieces of pita in it), various olives, Jordanian wine and some ashta (a cream topped with rose and orange blossom water) for dessert.

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Day 3

Today, we began with an early morning drive to the crossing point between Jordan and Israel.  As we left the Petra area, we saw the monument marking the place where Aaron, Moses’s brother, died.  We also made a stop along the way to enjoy the views of the Dead Sea and to see the pillar that is reported to be the remains of Lot’s wife.

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The border crossing itself was a bit chaotic, but luckily, our guide stuck with us until we got in the van to be driven across the border line.  On the Israeli side, we got stuck in a line waiting first for security (we were behind a teenage girl who couldn’t figure out why the machine was going off as she pulled first two pieces of fruit, then a toilet paper roll and finally her air pods out of her pockets) and then for the passport check.  But, we made it through and met our new guide.

As soon as we left the crossing point, the Biblical locations and history immediately jumped to life as we drove by the city of Jericho on our way to the point where it is believed that Jesus was baptized on the Jordan River (for many years this location was closed, and an alternate location was used but it has recently been reopened).

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After dipping our hands in the water, we drove to the Qumran caves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found.  We watched a film about the Essenes who were a mystic Jewish sect that lived in the caves and were the ones that wrote the scrolls and hid them in the caves before being driven out by the Romans.  In fact, it is believed that John the Baptist may have been a member of the sect.  At the site, we could see not only the caves where the scrolls were found but also the remains of the Essene commune.

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From here we went to a beach point on the Dead Sea and changed into our bathing suits in order to do a little floating.  The salt content in the water is about 34% (normal saltwater is about 3.5%) so there are signs reminding you not to put your face in or splash so that you avoid burning in your eyes.  While it was a little chilly in the water, the float was fun for a little bit and the views around the sea (though it is actually a large lake) were nice.

After cleaning up, we drove through the Judean mountains to Jerusalem.  We drove up Mount Scopus and then to the Mount of Olives where we could overlook the whole city.

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Our guide pointed out a lot of sites and shared a lot of history.  Probably the most important place in Jerusalem is the Dome of the Rock (golden domed building).  This is said to be the location on which the Earth began, where Abraham prepared to sacrifice Isaac, where the Holy of Holies (the Temple) was erected and where Mohammed from the Muslim faith ascended.  Other locations that he pointed out were the site of the Last Supper, the Garden of Gethsemane and the spot of the crucifixion.

After hearing all of this information, we made our way down the mountain to the Garden of Gethsemane and the Lord’s Agony Church constructed around the site where Jesus prayed in the garden.  The olive trees there are 2000 years old, so they are the trees from Jesus’s time.  Inside the church, there were some beautiful mosaics and the stone on which Jesus prayed (of course, with all of the sites, the said spots are not confirmed exact locations but are the general area).

After this, we made our way to our hotel where we had afternoon tea which was a fun experience.  For dinner, our guide suggested a focaccia restaurant that was actually pretty good.  We tried something called sabich which is essentially an eggplant dish (there is a sandwich version, but this was just the filling to be eaten on focaccia).  We also had our first Israeli wine and beer.

Day 4

After breakfast where we tried Shashuka (essentially a tomato and pepper-based sauce with poached eggs on top), olives, cheeses, persimmon and some Challah bread, we ventured into the old city of Jerusalem.

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The first stop was just outside the city at the site of King David’s tomb and the Last Supper.  The building itself is not the one from that time, but it is built on the site.  The tomb is on the first floor and the Last Supper room is on the second floor.  The room was very simple but pretty.

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We also saw the church that is built on the spot where Mary ascended to Heaven.

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We walked into the Old City through the Zion Gate and saw the bullet holes left there from the 1948 war for independence.

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In the city, we walked by the remains of the old main street called the Cardo.

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We walked into the Jewish Quarter (the city has 4 quarters) and to the Western Wall (this is considered a holy place because it is all that remains of the retaining wall of the Temple).  Men and women have separate sides of the wall, so we separated to go up to it and touch it.  The boys also got to see the old archways that are only accessible from the men’s side.

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After the wall, we went to the Muslim Quarter and walked through the streets that have a bazaar style atmosphere to St. Anne’s Church which is reportedly the site where Mary was born.

20230101_11053820230101_111301We then began the walk along the Via Dolorosa (the path Jesus walked to the crucifixion point).  The first point on the path was the site where Pontus Pilot condemned Jesus.  There are two churches on this site.  They were both nice, but one had some very interesting 3-dimensional artwork as well as the original flooring.

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We continued the path past the Ecco Homo arch and the various spots where Jesus fell or was helped by others.  Then, we arrived at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

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We saw the spot marking where Jesus was undressed and the spot where he was crucified (there is an alter there, and you can get under it to touch the rock of the spot).

There was also the rock that is reportedly the one on which his body was laid and prepared for the tomb.

We saw the site of the tomb rock but there was a huge line to go in, so we didn’t do that.

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After walking back through the Muslim bazaar and to the Jaffa Gate, we got some lunch of falafel and shawarma wraps.

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Our next stop was going to Bethlehem, but it is under Palestinian control so Israeli citizens can’t enter.  As a result, we had to meet a driver outside the border line and be driven in to meet a Palestinian guide.  The Church of the Nativity was chaos.  You have to go down into a cave where you, again, can touch the rock of the site where Jesus was born.  They also have a manger display set up in the cave.  We had to wait in a line to be able to enter because different religious groups bless the cave multiple times each day, and no one can go in during the blessings.  It was pretty packed in the cave, but we touched the rock and made our way back out.

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We went into a Catholic church on the site where we saw a statue monument to Mary, and then we stood in a courtyard where our guide said the Lord’s Prayer in Aramaic which was Jesus’s native language.  That was kind of cool.

After this, we got transferred back to our Israeli guide across the Palestinian border and went to have a snack of Jerusalem bagel and sambusak (small breads stuffed with mushroom, potato or cheese-and, as I’m sure you guys could guess, we tried all three types!).

Later, we had freekeh risotto (this is a type of wheat) and sheikh al mahshi (zucchini stuffed with lamb).  We tried Taybeh, a Palestinian beer, and had some babka, several types of rugelach and some jam cookies for dessert.

Day 5

Today began in a sobering way with a trip to the newer part of Jerusalem to the Yad Vashem, the Holocaust memorial.  It was a very symbolic memorial with pathways lined with trees honoring those that helped people during the Holocaust.  We went into the children’s memorial which was an interesting visual depiction of the children who died.  We also went through the museum which had a lot of personal video testimonies and pictures.  After a while, it just became too much, and you really felt like you couldn’t take in any more of the atrocities.  One of the few places that we took any pictures there was in the building depicting the names of all of the concentration camps.

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After this stop, we went to Ein Karem, a small village in the city, where John the Baptist was born.  We first saw the Church of the Visitation which is on the site where Mary visited Elizabeth when they were both pregnant.

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Inside the church is a well said to be from the spring that erupted when the women greeted each other.  There is also a rock in the church said to be the one that hid John the Baptist as a baby when Herod had all of the Jewish babies killed.  Outside the church is a wall with the blessing that Mary gave Elizabeth in many languages.

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After this, we went to the church on the site where Zechariah and Elizabeth’s home was and where John was said to be born.  Here, you again could touch the stone of the birth site.

We drove through the city past the Parliament and the Supreme Court on our way to the Israeli Museum where we saw a really cool model depicting the layout of the entire city during about the 1st century.

Then we went into the Shrine of the Book (the Dead Sea Scrolls and the vessels they were found in are housed here).

Next, we went to the Machne Yehuda market area.  We stopped first for lunch at a very local restaurant (all Israelis inside).  We had pitas with a selection of small salads, as they call them, which are really small dips and accoutrements.  They included things like hummus, tahini, eggplant, tomato onion sauce, and pickles as well as small sauces.  Some of us tried the mixed grill which is grilled meat but includes parts like heart and liver while others opted for the vegetarian version of mixed grill.  Both were actually very good.  They came with okra and mujaddara which is like lentils and rice with crispy onions on top.  We washed it all down with some Israeli beer.  It was really good!

After lunch, we walked through the market where they had tons of fruits, vegetables, spices, nuts, olives and baked goods.

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We stopped at a stand selling halva (candy made from sesame seeds).  We saw the machine that presses the seeds to make the paste which is used for the candy.  They had so many different flavors of halva, but we tried the lemon version.

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We also stopped at a bakery and bought some fresh chocolate rugelach.  It was so good!

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After the market, our guide took as to the new Mamilla shopping center for a look around, and then, we rested for a while before going to dinner.  No one was too hungry, so we just had adas (red lentil soup) and some hummus with lamb on top with a local beer.

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Day 6

Today, we moved on from Jerusalem and made our way south along the Dead Sea to Masada.

On the way, we stopped in a national park area and saw some ibex and hyrax (rock rabbit).  As we continued the drive, we saw some really cool natural “rock” formations.

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At Masada, we took the cable car up the mountain to the site of one of King Herod’s palaces and fortresses which was later used by the Zealots, the last Jewish stronghold against the Romans.  At the site, we saw many old ritual baths, water cisterns, water diversion and collection methods, storage rooms, a dove cote and the bathhouse of the palace with its steam pipe system.

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In addition, what may be the first ever synagogue from the 1st century is located on the site.

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We watched a movie about the area, specifically about the period when the Zealots were under siege by the Romans for a three-year period before committing suicide.  At the site, you can still see many of the boulders that the Romans shot at the Zealots, the ramp that they built to enter the city and the encampment areas and siege wall that they built.

After leaving the area, we began making our way north through part of the West Bank where the land became less arid and more fertile.

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Upon crossing back into Israel, we stopped in a small town for a lunch of falafel wraps made with laffa bread and some really delicious fried eggplant.

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We stopped at a Kibbutz to see an ancient synagogue with a mosaic floor and watched a movie about its construction.

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Then we went to another Kibbutz that had a store selling all kinds of dates and date products which was interesting.

From here, we drove the rest of the way to the Sea of Galilee where we could see the Golan Heights mountains with the Syrian and Lebanese borders just beyond them.  We drove a bit through Tiberias and saw some of the town’s ancient ruins before checking into our hotel.

For our dinner, we walked to a restaurant where we had the salads again, this time with both regular and garlic pita breads.  We tried some local beer and ate way too much!  It was pouring rain when we left, so we got a bit wet.

Day 7

We began the day by going to a Kibbutz where they discovered a 2,000-year-old fisherman boat.  They had a very interesting movie about how they removed it from the mud and information on the restoration process.

After viewing the boat, we took a boat ride on the Sea of Galilee (again it’s just a very large lake).  From the boat, we got a view of the path through the mountains that Jesus would have taken from Nazareth, the area where Mary Magdalene was from and where she began following Jesus, where Jesus walked on water, where he lived with Peter in Capernaum as well as the sites of the Sermon on the Mount and the multiplication of the fishes and loaves.

After the boat ride, we went to the Church of the Beatitudes (Sermon on the Mount).  It was a small and simple church with all the beatitudes displayed around it.

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Then, we drove up the mountains to Safed which is where the Kabbalah movement was started.

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We visited a 2nd century synagogue there that had a really beautiful and colorful ark.  We also saw the chair that they use for circumcision ceremonies. 20230104_122355[4229]

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We walked through an artist corridor that had some really cool art pieces.  We learned some interesting things from our guide about the typical Jewish items used in the home, and we visited a candle shop making some very elaborate candles and candle displays.

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Then, we went to a shop where weavers were making customized prayer blankets among other things.

Right outside this shop, there was a 100-year-old fig tree.

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After leaving Safed, we had a quick lunch of sabich sandwich (eggplant and egg) and Israeli salad.

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We visited the Church of the Multiplication which had some nice original mosaic floors.

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Then it was on to Capernaum where we saw the ruins of the town including Peter’s house which is where Jesus likely lived and an old synagogue.

Our final stop of the day was the Golan Heights Winery where we took a small tour and tasted three of the wines.

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In the evening, we sat outside on the Sea of Galilee for some dinner.  We had the hummus, tahini and tabbouleh with both pita and garlic pita.  We also tried the anise flavored aperitif Arak which I really liked.  Our main courses were a grilled eggplant and the St. Peter’s fish (whole tilapia) with some Goldstar beer.  For dessert, we had malabi (a kind of custard with rose water on top) and something they called Switzerland.  Both were really good.

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Day 8

Today at breakfast, we had labneh balls (cheese spread), potato bourkas and some cheese.

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After leaving the Sea of Galilee area, we drove through Cana where Jesus turned the water to wine on our way to Nazareth.

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In Nazareth, we went to the Church of the Annunciation which was quite an unusual church on the site where Gabriel visited Mary.

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The lower level of the church was quite barren with the ancient site.

The upper level featured a lot of mosaics donated from countries all over the world.

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Also within the church site is a smaller church built on what is believed to be the remains of Joseph’s house and workshop in Nazareth.

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The remains of the old city of Nazareth were visible as well.

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On the way back to the car, we stopped in a spice shop where they were selling tons of spices and candies.  They had several old grinding machines as well.

From here, we traveled north to Akko and walked to the old Crusader city.  We watched a short film about the area before heading underground (the current city is built on top of the old crusader city).  We walked through a tunnel that used to run from the city to the port and several other buildings in the ancient city such as the hospital.

On the upper level, we saw some of the old city walls and an old jail from before Israeli independence (under British rule it was the site of the imprisonment and hanging of several Jewish underground fighters).

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We made our way down to the port area and through the market bazaar.

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We stopped in an area that used to be a Turkish Ottoman market with each door to the current shops being the former market stall doors.

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We ate in a restaurant in one of the stalls where we had hummus with mushrooms and hummus with shawarma as well as falafel and pickled eggplant.  At the end of the meal, they gave us some Arabic coffee.

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From here, we drove along the Mediterranean Sea to Caesarea which was built by King Herod.  We were able to see the Roman amphitheater, hippodrome, city ruins, pieces of columns and sarcophagi.  We also saw the site of Herod’s palace which had a large pool right on the sea.  We watched a nice movie about Herod and the building of Caesarea.  On our way out of the city, we stopped by a very large aqueduct.

Finally, we completed our drive to Tel Aviv and checked into our hotel where we enjoyed the happy hour which featured bageleh (kind of like a pretzel) and stuffed grape leaves.

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After a while, we walked along the coast to the port of Tel Aviv where there are many shops and restaurants.  We took some time to look around and to have a dinner of mujaddara (rice and lentils with onions on top) and sahlab which is hot milk sprinkled with orchid flower powder causing it to make a pudding like drink.  It was pretty good.

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Day 9

We started our day with a nice breakfast, the highlight of which was some really delicious babka bread.

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We walked along the sea to the Carmel Market which had some nice vendors.  We bought some fresh squeezed pomegranate juice.

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We walked to Jaffa where we saw the clock tower and other old buildings.  We also saw the old port and old Jaffa which is where the story of Jonah and the whale occurred.  We walked through a few of the streets of the Jaffa flea market and to St. Peter’s Church.

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We also saw an open square with a cute fountain that was built on the site of an old well.

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After wandering through some streets of the old area, we grabbed a snack of sambusak from a bakery.  We got one potato and one cheese.

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With our energy renewed, we walked to an old train depot that had been converted to a shopping space and into the shopping area of Neve Tzedeck.  We made our way back to the coastline to grab some lunch.  We had mushroom hummus, falafel and lemon mint slushies with some Maccabi and unfiltered Goldstar beer.  It was great until a downpour sent us inside at the end of the meal.

20230106_140423[4430]20230106_142006[4431]After the rain stopped, we walked back to our hotel along the coast.  It wasn’t long before the rain started again, so we decided to order our dinner in.  We bought something called jachnun which is a dense bread rolled up and served with a hard-boiled egg.  Apparently, it was introduced by Jewish Yemenites.  It was not bad but was a little greasy and heavy.

Day 10

For our last day, we grabbed some breakfast where we ate a few last olives and dates and tried one thing we hadn’t yet-kugel: basically, layered noodles with cottage cheese filling.  After breakfast, the weather was perfect, so we went to the beach for a while.  It was really nice to just sit and enjoy the weather as we knew we would be returning to cloudy skies at home!

We found a small place for lunch where we got falafel, shawarma, kubbeh and salad Fairuz (tomato and cucumbers on a bed of rice, lentils and onions).  We had a final beer and finished with a malabi (the custard with rose water dessert).

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There was a bakery on our way back to the main road, and they were selling sufganiyot (a jelly filled donut that we thought we could only find at Hannukah time), so, of course, we got one to try.  It was pretty much just a jelly donut but not as heavy and sugary.

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We walked along the beach promenade to a small shop specializing in kanfeh.  We had tried a version in Jordan, but this was quite different.  In Jordan, the dessert had a cream style filling; here it was cheese.  We got to watch it being made which was interesting, and it was good-not too sweet but not just savory.

With that, our time in Israel was basically done.  We took a stroll back along the coast trying to soak in the sun before making our way to the airport and flying back home.

Overall, we had a wonderful time in both Jordan and Israel.  It was really interesting and eye opening to see a place with so much history and such a convergence of religious beliefs.  Likewise, to get an inside perspective on the very complex situation surrounding these areas and their interactions with one another was enlightening.  But as our Palestinian guide said, it is not like the media portrays-everything was peaceful and felt completely safe.  For anyone that has the interest and means to take a trip there, we would definitely recommend it.  Another amazing experience in the books!  Thanks for coming along and bye bye for now.  We’ll see you on our next adventure!

England Calling

This year, our fall break took us to England.  The first three days of our trip were spent sightseeing in London.  We walked all over the city from our apartment south of the Thames. The second half of the trip was spent venturing in a radius of a couple of hours outside of London.

On our first day, we arrived so early that our apartment wasn’t ready for us.  This meant that there was time for an English breakfast from a nearby restaurant.

After getting checked into our apartment we made a 45-minute walk along the Thames to the House of Lords and Big Ben (which we found out is actually the Elizabeth Tower; Big Ben is the bell inside).

Around the area is also Westminster and Scotland Yard as well as the Calvary Museum, all of which we took a brief look at.

We decided to walk farther north into Trafalger Square, the West End theater district and Picadilly Circus as well as some of the shopping streets and past the Ritz Carlton with its smartly dressed doorman before finding lunch at the Albert pub.

Now, at the Albert pub we had three things that we continued to enjoy several times on our trip.  Rather than detail them for you every time we ate them, I’m going to give you a collage of all of them now.  And the most eaten food in England award goes to: Fish and Chips, Sticky Toffee Pudding and beer.

 

After lunch we went to Westminster Cathedral (not to be confused with Westminster Abbey) and were quite impressed with its architecture and the pretty mosaics all over the walls and ceiling.

Then, we had a quick stop outside Buckingham Palace before making our way through Battersea Park to find dinner near our apartment at a nice little tapas restaurant.

As the start of our second day was a bit wet, we took a Hop On and Off bus around the city as we made our way to St. Paul’s Cathedral.

After a quick look inside, we walked over the Thames to Tower Bridge.  We toured the museum inside the bridge including a sky walk over the Thames.  We viewed the engine room to learn how they raise and lower the bridge and then after leaving, we got to see the engines in action as the bridge was raised for two large boats.

After the bridge, we entered the Tower of London, which is one of the castles built by William the Conqueror in the 1000s.

The Tower houses a lot of history including the site of the beheading of Anne Boleyn, the Bloody Tower where Walter Raleigh was held captive and one of the young kings of England vanished and was thought to be murdered by his uncle, and the apartments of the former kings.  We also enjoyed going in to the one remaining original building from the 1000s holding the armory, the torture chamber and the chapel.

But the best part about the Tower of London has to be the Crown Jewels.  They are a symbol of opulence and a complete waste of riches that could be used in so many better ways, but nonetheless, they are beautiful and steeped in lots of history and tradition. You can’t photograph anything inside the Crown Jewel exhibit so the best I could do was a picture of the outside.

After the Tower, we went to the Globe Theater of Shakespeare fame.  It’s not the original theater as that burned down in the fire of London in the 1600s; however, it is very near the original site, and it is a very authentic replication.  We took a guided tour and learned a lot about the theater and the productions that occur there (which are also kept authentic).

After the theater, we were five minutes from getting on the bus when the sky opened, and a torrential downpour drenched us and the dozen other people waiting under an extremely skinny overhang at the bus stop.  Our dripping selves tried not to be too miserable as we rode the bus for a while to a location for dinner and then walked home.

On day three we grabbed some cheddar and chive scones and some pastries on our way to Westminster Abbey.

After waiting in a very long line, we made our way inside where we got to see the resting places of some very notable people such as Isaac Newton, Charles Darwin and authors like C.S. Lewis, Charles Dickens and Lewis Caroll among others.

There were also a few monarchs buried there: perhaps you are familiar with Elizabeth I, her sister, Bloody Mary, and her cousin, Mary Queen of Scots.

It was also interesting to see the coronation alter and coronation chair, both of which will be used when Charles is crowned next year.

After the Abbey, we went by Buckingham Palace and caught the tail end of the changing of the guard.

From the palace, we walked through Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens to Kensington Palace for a peek from the outside.

We had lunch in a pub in Kensington before going to the National Gallery which houses a lot of works by very famous artists.  My favorite might have been The Water Lily Pond by Monet.

After the gallery, we ventured into Hambly’s Toy Store-more of an emporium really with seven floors all boasting demonstrations of various toys and merchandise by employees. The pandemonium inside was a bit much, so we made our way out and on to dinner.

On the fourth day, we got out of the city on a day tour to Leeds Castle, Dover and Canterbury Cathedral.  Leeds Castle featured a movie about all of the lady owners of the castle which was sort of interesting.  The castle itself was not all that interesting on the inside, but the outside and the grounds were quite pretty.

After the castle, we made our way to the cliffs of Dover and Dover Castle for a quick stop.

Canterbury Cathedral was the final stop.  The Cathedral was nice, and we saw the site of the murder of Thomas Beckett which then inspired pilgrimages to the cathedral and ultimately the story The Canterbury Tales.

After viewing the cathedral, we stopped at a pub in town to have a Kent beer and a cask beer as well as a lentil potato Shepard’s pie and a goat cheese and sweet potato tart.  We also tried a caramel biscuit tart for dessert.

The highlight of the day though (and maybe for me, the whole trip) was after our return to London.  We got some last-minute tickets to see the Phantom of the Opera at Her Majesty’s Theater, the site of its debut in 1986.  The show was so good!

Day five was another day tour-this time north to Stratford upon Avon, Shakespeare’s home.  Here we saw the home he was born in and where he lived before moving to London to work in the theater.

We also saw the building where he attended school as a boy.

We took a walking tour of the city with our guide which ended at the cathedral where Shakespeare is buried.

The next part of the tour was in the Cotswolds-a very picturesque area with rolling green fields and stone homes.  We drove through several small hamlets and stopped in a few for a look around.

We even saw a door to a cathedral that inspired Tolkien’s Gates of Mordor.

Finally, we made our way to Oxford for another walking tour which began after a quick stop at the pub where C.S. Lewis and Tolkien used to meet and where they formed a literary society.

The tour of Oxford included several of the colleges and the library as well as the site of one of Bloody Mary’s executions.

We stopped at a well-known student pub, the Turf Tavern, before heading back into London.

We got a few pictures on our nighttime walk back to our apartment.

We had one final day tour on our sixth day.  The first stop on this tour was Windsor castle.  We made our way through the State Apartments which were very opulent, and then we went to St. George’s Chapel.  This is the burial place of Henry VIII and Jane Seymour.  In addition, it is where Queen Elizabeth II was recently laid to rest next to Prince Philip, so we walked by her tomb.

After leaving the chapel, we watched the changing of the guard procession into Windsor.

We grabbed a quick cheese and onion pasty before returning to the bus and heading to Stonehenge.

Here, we walked around the monument and enjoyed it from all angles and observed the burial mounds.

The final stop of the day was Bath.  We opted not to go into the bathhouse but to walk around the city instead.  The city had some lovely spots, and we went into a cathedral which was nice.

With a little time to kill, we ventured into a small pub to have some English beer and some apple cider (the liquor kind!).

Back in London, we went to dinner in an incredibly busy pub, but the food was good.

On our final day, I walked with the kids to get some scones and coffee at a bakery while my husband had a work meeting.  After packing up and heading out of our apartment, we killed some time in a pub called the Victoria before taking the train to the airport.

All in all, we had a good time.  London is a nice city with lots of things to do including a ton of free museums, so it would definitely be a good place to head back again some time.  Until then, Cheerio!

Flitting Through Friesland

We took a quick tour of the Friesland area on a beautiful Saturday late in the summer.  Friesland is composed of many small towns in the northwest of the Netherlands.  It is very agricultural and famous for the speed skating competition that used to be held every winter on the canals, the Elfstedentocht.  Parts of Friesland are located on the Wadden Sea and on the way there, we passed by one of the wind farms in the sea. 

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We began our day on the Aldfaers Erf Route (the path through all of the small towns) with the town of Piaam.  It was so tiny that the most interesting part was the small church with graveyard. 20220903_082704[2045]

Driving between the towns we saw many open marsh fields with some interesting birds-a lapwing and a long billed dowitcher. 

The second town was Ferwoude.  Aside from some stands selling pumpkins and a large pen filled with goats next to one of the homes, the church and graveyard was once again the highlight. 

Next, we made our way to Hindelopen. They had a large Reformist Church here and a huge number of sailboats on the sea as well as a beautiful view of more wind farming.  

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Next up was Workum.  This was a larger town with tons of bridges crossing over river outlets and a couple of large churches.   We stopped in a bakery here and bought some anise (licorice flavor) bread and a few pastries.  While the children didn’t like the bread, surprisingly, I thought it was pretty good.

After this, we headed back to the small towns of Allingastate and Exmorra.  Nothing too exciting were found in these towns, but when we made our way into Bolsward, we saw some very cool things. First of all was this church from the 13th century.  The roof is now gone and replaced with glass, and the space is used as an event venue.  It was quite pretty.

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But the fun and interesting thing in front of the historic site was the statue of a bat that poured water from it’s mouth. (In Workum we saw lions shooting water from their paws and in Hindelopen water was spraying from some huge antler statue).

The old town hall was also interesting as was the street in front of it lying along the canal with restaurants, shops and some pretty bridges.

After Bolsward, we made our way to Sneek.  It was really a nice city with an interesting old city gate overlooking the river.  

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After walking around the city for a bit, we made our way to the church of Wiuwert where there are some mummies from the 15th and 16th centuries in the crypt (as well as a mummified cat and some birds).  The interesting thing about the mummies is that they were not purposely preserved, but rather it happened naturally- they believe from the conditions of the airflow in the crypt.  No pictures were allowed of the mummies, but you could really see their facial features (one died of a tooth abscess and you could see the pain on the face).  It was quite interesting.  The church itself was from the 13th century and was also well maintained.

Our final stop was a quick one for lunch in Leeuwarden.  It was probably the biggest city of all of them.  We didn’t get to see much of it, but there were some really lovely views of the river and canals.

All in all, Friesland was a nice day excursion.  There were many museums in the area and with more time, we might want to check a few of them out, but for now, we enjoyed the views and landmarks in the area as well as the fabulous weather.

 

Happy Anniversary- 4 Down, More to Come

It’s once again that time of year- the anniversary of our move to The Netherlands.  Now that we have completed four years (1 more than the original plan included), we have been looking back on those years and assessing what they have meant and where we are now.

The past four years have held a lot of ups and downs.  The initial decision to move and our first months in the country were overwhelming and fraught with doubts about whether it was a good decision or whether we had damaged our children (at least, I worried about that).  As we hit the seventh or eighth month mark, we had found our groove and were starting to enjoy our new surroundings and friends.  We experienced the difficulty of having friends move away at the end of year one which made us once again feel isolated and down, but we rebounded with fun travel and experiences in our second year until everything came to a screeching halt with Covid.  Actually, the first bout of Covid closures really didn’t get us too down.  We maintained contact with some friends through online forums, and we enjoyed some really fabulous nature walks around our area and some great family time while exploring some creative ventures.  The third year was much more difficult as Covid took a harder toll and left us feeling more isolated and disappointed that we were losing time of our short-term experience here.  In addition, that third year left us having to make difficult decisions again about whether to extend our stay or return to the US.  Once again, we felt weighted with the question of whether we were making the right decisions.  It was an emotional time as we let go of our house in the US and opened ourselves to complete and utter uncertainty about what happens after our time in The Netherlands ends (for a planner, having no idea what the future looks like is sheer terror and chaos).  Our fourth year has brought more calm.  Although there have been many of the normal growing pains of a family with teenagers, most of us have been enjoying ourselves again this year.  We have still had some concerns about whether the decision to enroll the children in such a small school was a good one, but we also have a lot of pluses about the small school experience leading us to believe that at some point we just have to accept that the situation is what it is and focus on the positive aspects (easier said than done at times).  This year we were able to socialize a lot more and travel again which has been of huge importance to us (in fact, it was one of the factors in deciding to move in the first place).  We feel like we are once again being able to take advantage of living here.

As to myself personally, this year I have been a little more active in my volunteerism.  I ran two clubs for secondary students at the school which proved to be both rewarding and frustrating at times.  In addition, I have served on several committees at the school which has allowed me to help shape the school’s future direction.  Probably my most entertaining volunteer area this year was overseeing a Dutch conversation group for parents at the school  It has been a lot of fun to get together every week to socialize in Dutch (though we did cheat some and use English a bit). 

Overall, I believe that this year, we all felt good about our decision to be in Europe for longer than originally intended.  The children enjoy the opportunities that they have to know others from all over the world, travel, and have a global perspective.  We all love the chance to explore different areas of the world and experience new things.  In addition, we really enjoy spending time with the friends we have made here. 

But life is life no matter where you are, and there are still struggles and uncertainties.  We are entering new territory this year as our oldest will begin the IB program at school.  We have heard so frequently about how intense and time-consuming it is, that we have some definite fears and concerns, but we are also looking forward to seeing how it will challenge her.  Big life decisions are on the horizon which is already beginning to induce some anxiety.  Not having a clear picture of what happens in two more years is frightening and overwhelming, but being okay with that and living with it is one thing that this whole experience has helped me be able to do.   The unknown aside, we are determined to keep making the most of things here in year five. 

So…that leaves a revisit of last year’s goals.  Drumroll, please…..

  1. Continue to progress with Dutch, Portuguese, and piano.  

Okay, Portuguese had to go by the wayside.  It was becoming too difficult to learn two languages at once.  Considering that the Dutch will help me most in the here and now, I stuck with that one and am happy to report that I have improved considerably.  I can read a lot now and can understand much more in conversation (though it is still a struggle to understand the native Dutch speakers at times as they speak fast).  I try to speak some, but the fear of being wrong holds me back-something I need to work on. Piano is going okay and I have improved, but a recent hiatus has slowed me down so I need to get back to regular practice.

  • Get back to a consistent workout plan to lose some extra weight and get in shape.

I wish I could say that this worked.  I was consistent in a plan for a while, but I would still like to do better. 

  • Read at least 1 book a month.

I did it!  There were a few times that I wasn’t sure I would make it, but I did.  I even got two read during one of the months.  It was actually nice to get back to reading consistently. 

  • Travel and visit a few more places in the Netherlands that we want to see (for goodness sake Covid, give a girl a break!)

I am so happy to report that this finally happened.  We went to several of the places in The Netherlands- at this point, we have almost completed the list of items to see/do here that I made a couple of months after arriving four years ago.  In addition, we got to take the trips that we had to cancel when Covid hit- Italy, Ireland, and Greece.  We even got to add a few others-Poland, Kenya, and Brasil. 

  • Take more bike trips

I am still really hoping to do a bike trip to the beach this summer, but as of right now, nothing more than our normal biking has taken place.  After a recent bike accident, we probably need to get the bikes checked before attempting a long trip so maybe later this summer or in very early fall before the weather turns on us.

So, any goals for this year? 

  1. You should know by now that travel is always on my goal list.  We have 5 proposed trips this year, and I really hope we get to take all of them.  In addition, we are hoping to add in a couple of quick weekend getaways.  Fingers crossed!
  2. Have at least one conversation in Dutch in which I don’t sound like a two-year-old.
  3. I have really got to get back in shape this year.
  4. I would like to complete the list of places to see in The Netherlands that I created when we first moved here (with the help of a guidebook written by a long-time expat). 
  5. I would like to complete 6 bike route trips that I researched a couple of years ago.

So, at the close of year 4, we feel pretty good about this journey and what we have gained. Hope to keep seeing you all here as we move full steam ahead into year 5!

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