Going to the Dogs…and Cats

Now that we have looked at school life and work life, I think it’s time to look at pet life because being a pet in The Netherlands is a pretty sweet deal.  For the sake of this discussion, I’m going to stick to the two pets that we can see outside of the home-dogs and cats.  And the Dutch really love their dogs and cats!

Let’s start with dogs.  Many, many Dutch have dogs and since yards are not immense and sometimes don’t contain much green space, most of those dogs are indoor dogs (the exception might be in very rural areas).  But don’t worry that those dogs don’t get outdoor time because the Dutch take their dogs out regularly.

Many walk their dogs numerous times throughout the day no matter the weather.  And lest you think that walk means a quick stroll around the block on a leash, think again.  While leashes are used, many, many dogs are allowed to be off-leash.  Sometimes the dogs stay right next to their owner; however, they often wander in the green spaces along walking paths.  These dogs are so well trained, though, that as soon as the owner calls, they return to them.  But during their time in the green space, they are allowed to sniff around and explore freely.  There is really nothing funnier than seeing a small dog come out of a green space carrying a huge stick in its mouth as it moves on down the walking path.  Dogs are also often walked with other dogs and allowed to play with them in green spaces or dog designated areas.  For example, there is a sandy bank near a small lake in one of the parks near our home where numerous dogs are allowed to run around and play together.  In addition, dogs get to go everywhere.  They go to beaches, parks, restaurants, stores, etc.  Most restaurants have bowls for dogs that they bring out to the table just as they would bring cutlery.

Now, what if a dog owner doesn’t have the time required to take their dog out many times a day?  Well, no worries-the dog daycare industry here is a big deal.  There are many dog daycare possibilities from larger organizations to individuals.  These organizations provide services from dog walking to dog day out to dog daycare and full boarding.  Usually, you can give the dog caretaker a key and they will come to your house and pick up your dog and return them later.  It is not uncommon to see a van with many dogs in it picking up and dropping off in residential areas.  Also, you can often see many dogs being walked together by these organizations.

While lots of well-behaved dogs out and about everywhere all day long is fun to watch, there is one downside-feces.  And one can find it everywhere.  While there are laws in many places that require that it be picked up by owners, the reality is that it often does not happen.  There is a joke here in The Netherlands that you shouldn’t walk on the grass anywhere because you never know when you might step in something that a dog has left behind.  But the truth is, it’s really not a joke but very much a reality.

And what about cats?  Well most of them stay in their houses overnight; however, during the day, they are often out and about.  But it would seem that for the most part, they keep to their radius that they frequently travel and don’t get into too much trouble.  In our small neighborhood, there are 5+ cats that are out every day, and I’ve never seen them fight or have any problems.  The downside, however, is probably the effect on birds/water fowl.  It is very common in the spring/summer when many duck, goose and swan babies are born to see the number of babies dwindle each day.  It may not all be due to cats, but I’m sure it plays a large role.  Also, while you might expect to find some cats dead in the road as they roam about, I don’t think I have seen this a single time. 

Now, you may be thinking that there must be a problem with stray animals since these dogs and cats are allowed the freedom to roam and spend time with others of their species.  But there really is no stray problem.  I don’t think I have ever seen a stray dog in the past 2.5 years and most of the cats that I have seen also appear to have owners.  In fact, The Netherlands does claim that they are the first country with no strays.  They have many laws to protect animals and punish abusers, they mandate that spaying and neutering services be offered for free and they encourage adopting versus buying animals-there is actually a tax on buying but not adopting.  Even finding animals to adopt can be a real challenge.  There are animal shelters in The Netherlands, but there are not many, there are not many animals kept in them regularly and most of the animals that are there come from stray and rescued populations in other European countries.  I have heard from many people that they often have to get on a waiting list to adopt when an animal becomes available.

A final item of interest to note-veterinary services are very reasonably priced and affordable here.  We probably paid twice to three times as much for routine vet visits and more specialized care in the US.  Food, accessories and boarding services are pretty comparable here to US prices.

Overall, the Dutch seem to have a culture in which pets are not only important members of a family, but are also given many freedoms in order to make sure that they stay healthy, receive plenty of stimulation and have a good quality of life.  They value these animals and believe they are entitled to care and kind treatment.  In other words, a Dutch pet’s life is a pretty sweet pet’s life.

Workin 9-5…Or Maybe Less

In the last couple of weeks, we have looked at school and children’s lives here in The Netherlands, but now it’s time to look at adult lives, mainly worklife.

  • As mentioned in another post, there is a pretty important and largely upheld work life balance in The Netherlands.  The work week generally consists of about 36-40 hours and it is not uncommon for people to work less than 5 days a week or to be a part time employee (between 12-36 hours per week).  In addition, the Dutch are not very likely to put in extra hours above the required hours.  Generally speaking, when the day is over, they are out the door and they do not take work home with them.  In addition, it is fairly common for the Dutch employee to come in late or leave early if they have a family commitment and unless it is habitual or affecting their work, they will not be questioned.  In addition, vacation time is important here and the minimum legally allowed is 4 days of vacation per days worked per week so most Dutch employees receive at least 16 days of vacation though the norm for full time employees is 25 days per year.  Employees also receive about 8 public holiday days per year with some variation among years.
  • Employment laws in The Netherlands largely exist to protect the employee and not the company.  One example of this is the fact that  there is no employment at will in The Netherlands, but rather a type of tenure system (and it does not take years to obtain this “tenure”).  This means that it is very hard to remove an employee.  Another example of the laws protecting employees is that companies of 50 or more employees are encouraged to have a works council (if any employee requests that it be formed, it must be).  A works council is a group comprised of employees meant to consult on and provide feedback on the company’s policies, procedures and plans with the effect on employees in mind.  There are many other laws and policies designed to protect employees, but the most incomprehensible of these, especially for American workers, is burnout leave.  Essentially, if the employee is feeling overworked and stressed because of their work responsibilities and this is affecting their mental health or family life, they can see their doctor for a burnout checkup.  If the doctor determines that they are, in fact, suffering from the effects of burnout, then that employee will be put on an indefinite paid leave.  Some employees take only a few weeks while others have taken years.  During this time, their job must be held for them.  This isn’t a rare and isolated phenomenon.  Many employees will experience this at some point.  Try finding a policy like that in the US!
  • And finally, what is the work day actually like?  The day is probably like a typical work day in the US with one exception-lunch.  In The Netherlands, it is expected that employees will eat lunch together.  It is quite common for everyone to pay a monthly fee out of their paycheck that goes toward the purchase of the daily lunch which is laid out in a common area for everyone to gather around to eat.  Lunch is quite often bread, deli meats and cheese.  Some companies have a canteen where employees gather to eat and can select from a couple of daily options for lunch.  And even if they don’t stay at the office, it is common for employees to go get a lunch together though probably not a sit down meal at a restaurant.  Once in the mall, I saw a group of young men in business suits all standing together around a small lunch counter during their lunch hour.  So, lunch is a pretty social affair during the workday.
  • And what about those employed in other industries that don’t work in an office?  Well  they still stick to maintaining a work life balance by not exceeding normal working hours.  People such as repair people, construction workers and gardeners take regular breaks during their work hours.  When our movers delivered our boxes, they literally worked for an hour or less, took a 15 minute break and then went back to working, repeating that cycle numerous times.  In addition, it is commonly expected here that if someone is working in your home, you will provide them with coffee at a minimum and very likely some snack as well (I have yet to do this without being asked by the worker, so I’m sure some of the workers that have come to our house think I am a real jerk).  Those in other jobs that do not take place in your home such as the food industry also receive regular breaks and are paid a salary so tipping is unnecessary; in fact, it is often just given to the restaurant rather than the individual server if it is done.  These employees also receive vacation time and it is fairly common for smaller restaurants to close for the month of August.

So, all in all, work life in The Netherlands isn’t too bad and most Dutch employees seem quite content with putting in their time at work and still getting to have plenty of time to participate in family life.  Could you get used to it?

The Happiest Kids in the World

Last week we looked at the school system in The Netherlands, so, along those lines, let’s look at the lifestyle of children here.  There have been numerous studies in recent years proclaiming that Dutch children are some of the happiest in the world and there are some factors that might contribute to that.

 1.  Children here are given large amounts of autonomy.  Rather than being driven everywhere, they bike on their own.  Many young children (think early elementary years) are still escorted to school by their parents, but once they are in the later years of primary school and secondary school, they go alone even when it takes 30 minutes or more to get to school.  Likewise, children bike themselves to their after school and weekend sports clubs or music lessons with their gear which they were probably responsible for gathering as well.  Also, many children ride public transportation by themselves. 

Children may run errands alone.  Many kids go to appointments on their own.  For example, when I take my daughter to the orthodontist, many of the kids come alone, go into the appointment alone and get the information needed and schedule their own appointments before leaving.  Kids also take care of shopping on their own when they need to or are asked by parents.  It is very common to see groups of secondary age kids in the grocery store in the morning buying items for their lunch.  I have also seen children sent to buy a few items for the family when the store is close to their home. 

And finally, Dutch children are encouraged to just go out and play without having to stay at their home to do so or to be overly supervised.  They don’t have to check in regularly and they aren’t checked on.  During the distance learning period in the spring, some of the children in our neighborhood spent hours every day building a fort in the wooded area by the houses and no parents ever went to check on them. 

2.  Children here don’t always have much “stuff.” Rather than have large rooms in which they collect copious amounts of toys and other junk, Dutch kids have smaller rooms, less storage and hence less stuff.  And while some people may feel that having stuff leads to happiness, it is, in fact, rather freeing to have less to keep up with.  In addition, when you don’t have “things”, you are more likely to go out to play, spend time with friends or engage in physical activity.

3.  Another theory is that Dutch parents are happy which makes the household and the children happier. The Dutch place a high level of importance on a balance between work and family time.  They do not work excessive hours, and it is culturally accepted that there are times when family obligations will trump work commitments.  In addition, Dutch fathers play an active role in child rearing and care which may also lead to balance and happiness in the household.  I see many fathers in The Netherlands taking their children to school which is something I rarely saw in the US.  In addition, when I see Dutch families doing things together, it seems like the parents are more engaged in the activity and spend more time talking with the family or friends they are with rather than being on a device.  I personally feel that in the US, I saw more parents on devices even when they were participating in family time out of the home. 

4.  There are also reports that Dutch children find their peer groups to be supportive and helpful and do not deal with issues regarding bullying and social identity as much as children in other countries. Also, it seems that social media and its pressures don’t stress Dutch kids much at all (see the link to the study below). 

5.  Dutch children are seen as having a “voice.” Within the family unit, children are listened to and encouraged to have opinions.  Likewise, at school, children are given the freedom to express themselves and do not experience as much authoritativeness from administration.  In return, the students generally trust their teachers.  And, parents may not put as much pressure on children in The Netherlands because they allow them the freedom to be themselves which may lead to more feelings of happiness.

6.  Finally, overall, the Dutch consider themselves to have a good life. They are a wealthy country with a good economy, they have decent healthcare and education, and there is little worry of incidents of mass violence particularly in schools.  These factors mean less stress and more happiness.

Of course, no culture is perfect and the Dutch do receive criticism for an unhealthy diet among kids.  There are also, of course, issues of poverty and racism to deal with.  And, for better or worse, Dutch children do seem to be exposed to sex (in terms of both education, discussion and the actual act) at a much earlier age than in many other cultures. 

All in all, though, I think there are some great things about being a kid in The Netherlands and some interesting aspects of child rearing to consider and potentially adopt in order to encourage children to be happy and well-adjusted.  I hope you have enjoyed this week’s peek at life in another culture.  Until next time, I wish you all, adults and children alike, much happiness! 

**Here are a few other things to note about life for Dutch kids-drinking age is 18 and so is driving age.  Of course, many kids get a license to drive a moped (which are generally driven in bike lanes) much sooner than that.  Tons of kids here play an extracurricular sport whether it is tennis, soccer or field hockey.   There is an idea/saying in The Netherlands that is ingrained in kids early on which is “doe normaal” (be normal) basically meaning that you should not behave in a way to stand out or to be different in a negative way.  It kind of translates to “stop, that’s crazy enough.”

Finally, this is an interesting study regarding the stressors of teens in The Netherlands.

https://nltimes.nl/2020/06/23/stress-school-dutch-teens-main-problem-unicef

 

All Things Education

Moving to The Netherlands with school age children meant that school was definitely a big part of the decisions we were making when moving.  The Dutch school system can be somewhat complex to understand for an outsider and in the end we decided to select a private international school.  But understanding Dutch schools can provide some interesting comparisons and food for thought when evaluating other school systems and educational organization.

Schools in The Netherlands are run by the Ministry of Education.  The Ministry sets the learning objectives, quality standards, social objectives, etc., but the individual schools are free to decide how to allocate their budget and the details of their curriculum.  In many ways, Dutch schools are similar to American schools.  On average, school is 180 or slightly more days a year, there are both private and public schools and special needs students are provided with the support to attend mainstream school as much as possible, but, if it is not possible, find that there are special schools available based on their needs.

There are some major differences between American and Dutch schools however.  First of all, school in The Netherlands is compulsory.  This means that students must attend a school-homeschooling is not permitted.  When we first arrived, we received letters from the government requesting the information of which school our children attend which, I believe, may have then been checked for accuracy so don’t think you can just fly under the radar.  It is possible to petition the government to make an exception to this rule.  We recently had a friend whose child had been attending private school and was accepted to a prestigious online school.  They petitioned the government and waited months to learn that he would be allowed to stay at home to attend the online school.  In addition, they take attendance very seriously.  Students are expected to be in school unless they are ill.  In fact, it is possible to be fined for an unexcused absence.  But don’t worry, they still get plenty of time off.  In both primary and secondary schools, there are set holiday days and vacation periods.  The set holidays include New Years Day, Easter Monday, King’s Day, Liberation Day (every 5 years), Ascension Day, Whit Monday, Christmas Day and Boxing Day.  In addition, most students have a week off in October, two weeks around Christmas, one week in February or March, two weeks in April or May and six weeks for summer in July and August.  In order to help minimize holiday traffic though, the country is divided into three regions and specific vacation weeks and especially the end and start of summer vacation is staggered among these regions.

The second difference between Dutch and American schools is that, while there are both private and public schools in The Netherlands, both schools receive equal funding from the government.  There are a few international private schools that do not receive funding, and consequently, their tuition is much higher than the international or private schools that do receive it. What this does mean is that private school is not only reserved for the super wealthy as there are many affordable options.

A final difference is that you are not required to attend a certain school based on your residence the way that school districts works in the US.  Rather, you are free to choose a school based on their method of teaching, reputation, atmosphere, etc.  Several of our neighbors have children at a nearby school because it is well known for having more parent contribution in terms of both volunteers and finances.

These are some of the basic similarities and differences between the American and Dutch school systems, but to really understand how the Dutch school system works, you’ve got to understand the layout.  There are three main categories for schooling within The Netherlands and within each of those, there are several types of schools.  To begin, the three main types are primary, secondary and university.

Primary school consists of groups 1-8 and is for ages 4-11 or 12.  You begin in group 1 when you are 4.  To be more specific, you begin (if you want as group 1 is not compulsory) on the day after your 4th birthday regardless of when during the year it occurs (given school is in session of course).  If you don’t do group 1, you are required to begin group 2 when you are 5.  In primary school, there are 2 types of schools-openbare which is funded and run by an independent foundation which was originally set up by the government and bijzondere which has its own board and follows either religious or pedagogical models.  About two thirds of students attend the bijzondere schools.  While most primary schools are free, many ask for a voluntary parent contribution to pay for extras.  They also rely heavily on parent volunteers.  In primary school, there are on average 24-30 students per class and students attend school from around 8:30am to 3:15pm and have around an hour for lunch.  During this break, they may go home for lunch or they may stay at the school, however, no lunch is served at school as it is the student’s responsibility to bring lunch.  On Wednesdays, primary schools get out at 12:30pm to allow for extracurricular activities, appointments and playdates.  Primary students are not given much homework, and in addition to the regular subjects you would expect to find, may expect classes on bike safety as well as having their own garden plot at the school to tend.  In addition, Dutch students generally begin learning English by group 7 (10 years of age) though many schools begin as early as group 1 or are designed as a bilingual school.  Starting around group 2 or 3, students are given a test twice a year to measure progress of the student and the teacher, however, there is no real consequence of the test other than to serve as an indicator of how the student is progressing.  Finally, during group 8 (the final year of primary school), students take a test to help determine which track they will follow, and thus which schools they might attend during secondary school.  The test is supplemented with teacher recommendation in order to best place the student.

At the secondary level, which generally begins at age 12, things get a bit more complex in terms of structure.  Based on that test in the final year of primary school and the teacher recommendation, students are placed into one of three tracks.  These tracks correspond to the type of studies the student will follow through the college years.  Track 1 (VMBO)  is vocational.  Students finish their secondary studies in four years at age 16.  Students who are placed in this track still have the opportunity to go to a university should they wish by completing extra studies after receiving their diploma.  Track 2 (HAVO) is for students who will go on to receive a Bachelor’s degree in applied sciences.  This diploma takes 5 years and is completed at age 17.  About halfway through their studies, the HAVO students choose their specific field of study.  Finally, Track 3 (VWO) is for students who will go on to a research university to receive their Bachelor’s degree in an analytical and research based field of study.  This diploma takes six years and is completed at age 18.  Secondary students attend school from about 8:30am to 4:00 or 5:00pm.  This varies each day based on the schedule of their classes.  Secondary students apply to the secondary school that they would like to attend and that is designated for the track they are on.  Students may not be accepted to their first choice, so they apply to several schools.  And lest you think it is completely unfair for students to be put on a specific track at age 12 that determines the course of their career and life, students are allowed to make adjustments and change track as they progress through secondary school.  Once all of that hard work is done, final exams are passed and a diploma is awarded, Dutch students let everyone know in a special ritual that you can read about in a previous post. https://terisacunha.com/2019/06/13/the-day-the-exam-results-came-in/

For higher education, there are three types of schools that align with the secondary tracks.  The first is an MBO school which is equivalent to an Associates degree.  Then there is the HBO which is a university of applied science and allows for the equivalent of a Bachelor’s degree.  Students from the HAVO secondary track and VMBO who received their MBO diploma along with additional studies may attend a HBO school.  Some of the types of careers for those with a HBO degree are primary school teachers, architects, journalists, nurses, management positions, artists, translators, pilots, etc.  It is possible to receive a Masters level degree from these schools if you have a HBO diploma and work experience.  Finally, there are the WO universities which are for students with VWO secondary diplomas, students working on Masters degrees or PhD degrees and for students who complete 1 year at a HBO university and receive special certification.  At WO universities, there is a greater focus on research based studies and typical careers for those with a WO degree include lawyers, psychologists, doctors, professors, engineers, scientists, etc.  In addition, from the age of 21, a person can test for WO university to prove that they possess the correct academic level even if they do not hold a secondary diploma that allows them admission.  One interesting fact to note, many university studies are conducted in English.  Another fact which will likely cause my American readers to fall off their chair, higher education in The Netherlands is government funded and thus is very affordable.  On average, students at HBO and WO universities pay about €2000 per year.  During their first year, they pay half of this and because of teacher shortages in recent years, students studying to become teachers pay only half for their first two years of study.  In addition, there are also grants available to students based on their performance and parent income.

As mentioned in the preceding paragraph, there is a teacher shortage in The Netherlands, and just like in the US, it can be attributed to overworked and underpaid teachers.  Teachers feel that they are not valued and that the pay does not reflect their skill level and the requirements of the job.  And just like in the US, this salary issue leads to shortages which then leads to more work being placed on the teacher, overcrowding of classrooms, no assistants/helpers for teachers, unqualified teachers in classrooms and school closures.  Teacher strikes are also a reality in The Netherlands.  Just last year, teachers engaged in a two day strike at government funded schools organized through their teacher union which claims that underfunding of education is the problem.  Interestingly though, many schools are not overly affected by teacher shortage.  It appears that shortages most often occur in specialized schools as well as non western migration (translation-minority) schools.  Pay is better in mainstream schools which helps to minimize shortages there.

Overall, the Dutch pride themselves on providing a quality education to all children and their rate of attainment of a university degree is just above 30 percent.  Their widespread command of a secondary language is also impressive.  But perhaps the best thing about Dutch education is that it is affordable.  And, in my opinion, while no system is without its faults, there are interesting ideas which might be gleaned from the Dutch education system that could be beneficial.

Van Harte Gefeliciteerd Met Je Verjaardag

Fijne Verjaardag!  Gefeliciteerd!   What does it mean- Happy Birthday and Congratulations!  Birthdays in The Netherlands are an interesting affair.  There are several notable differences between birthdays here and those in the US.  

  1. In The Netherlands, birthdays are a celebration for others more than they are for you.  It is not customary here to congratulate the birthday person as much as it is to congratulate their family.  On my birthday, my husband’s colleagues congratulate him.  When children have birthdays, the parents are congratulated (though I can understand this one; after all, we did keep them alive for another year!).  In general, if you are around them, you should congratulate all of the birthday person’s family on the birthday…and maybe even close friends as well.
  2. Along those same lines, no one provides the birthday person with a birthday cake or treat, but rather, it is your responsibility to provide something to allow others to celebrate you.  In offices and schools, this means you bring in a treat to share with everyone on your birthday.  And, your colleagues will get very upset if you don’t.  We moved here on my husband’s birthday, and, thus, I did not send anything into his office.  Now, I think his colleagues forgave us for that, but they made sure to let him know that the following year he needed to bring something. Same goes for your birthday party-you provide the dessert. 
  3. Birthdays are important to the Dutch.  I have never seen it personally, but rumor has it that there is a Dutch calendar kept in most homes (oddly enough, kept hanging in the bathroom) that is solely for listing the birthdays of everyone in their circle.
  4. Speaking of circles, the Dutch have a strange and often awkward tradition at birthdays of hosting what is called a circle party.  Everyone at the party sits in a circle of seats and has coffee or tea and cake.  The guest list is generally made up of both family (several generations) and friends.  And don’t forget, as a guest, it is your responsibility to greet and congratulate everyone in the circle.  Once you have done this, it is time to sit back and enjoy the potentially painful conversation and awkward silences.  As of yet, I have not attended one of these parties, but have several acquaintances that have, and they have assured me it is an interesting and generally less than desirable event.dutch-birthday
  5. Finally, in the tradition of Dutch directness, if your neighbors are planning a party that will not assume the form of the quiet circle party, they will generally let you know by dropping a note in your mailbox or by coming to your door to tell you.  And, lest you think that this is their way of making sure that you attend, think again.  They just want you to know that they are having a party, you can expect noise which, by way of them warning you in advance, you are to ignore, and, though they don’t say it directly, you are not invited.  Unlike in the US where we would typically try to avoid having someone know that they weren’t invited to a party, the Dutch are quite comfortable with being open with the fact that you didn’t make the guestlist.

And what’s the final thing that you should know about Dutch birthdays-the song, of course.  

Lang zal ze/hij leven,
Lang zal ze/hij leven,
Lang zal ze/hij leven,
In de gloria,
In de gloria,
In de gloria,
Hip, hip, hip, hoera!
Hip, hip, hip, hoera!
Hip, hip, hip, hoera!

It translates to long shall she or he live (3 times), in the gloria (3 times) and hip hip hooray (3 times). It’s a boisterous and fun song to sing. To get a feel for the tune and energy, think swinging mug of beer in one hand as you tipsily sing in a pub!

So there you have it-birthdays in The Netherlands. They seemingly celebrate and benefit everyone except the birthday person, but they are fun and important celebrations none the less!

Food, Glorious Food!

Food is one of those subjects that everyone is curious about in other countries. We can’t (and don’t like) to go long without it so it’s always on our minds and we romanticize the idea of eating exotic and novel foods. However, as our world is often a melting pot of mixed cultures and ethnicities, food tends to become a blend as well. Here in The Netherlands, we can find the influences of several cultures in the food and there are plenty of choices of foods from around the world to select from. You can find the presence of Italian, Greek, Turkish, Chinese, Indonesian, Vietnamese, Japanese, Indian, North African, Spanish, Surinamese, Brazilian, Mexican (and I mean really authentic Mexican), Afghanie and more here in The Netherlands. Many of these foods, such as Turkish food, have made their way into Dutch food culture by way of a large immigrant population in the country or through past colonization connections such as with Indonesian and Surinamese food. But while there is a plethora of cultural foods to choose from, if you venture into any non ethnic restaurant, you can be sure to find a few things.
  1. Many restaurants do not serve breakfast. They may be open for coffee and other drinks but often food is not served until noon. Of the ones that do serve breakfast, don’t think you will find pancake, bacon and egg platters, my American friends. You are more likely to find some sort of bread-maybe sweet, maybe with jam and butter, maybe with some ham and cheese, but whatever it is, it will likely be simple.
  2. Like many places in Europe, you are choosing between sparkling and still water, and it most likely is not free. A few places will do tap water but they may still charge you for the glass.
  3. Lunch is usually a simple affair. The Dutch love broodje-an open face sandwich with a topping such as carpaccio, cheese or salmon. They also love a tosti which is just a sandwich with meat, cheese, tuna or salmon salad or maybe a combination of the above in it. Another lunch favorite on a menu are kroketten (usually two) which are fried and often filled with a meat ragout. You can count on it coming with a slice of bread and maybe some fries. Finally, you have the uitsmijter which is a piece of bread topped with ham or bacon, a fried egg and cheese.
  4. You can always find beer, wine, tea and coffee on the menu.
  5. Finally, you can expect to find a few small bites or snacks to go with drinks often including bread with a spread of some sort, bitterballen (much like the krokets listed above but smaller and round), and olives (typically green).english-dutch-menu-with
Now, you may be wondering what we eat at home. For the most part, we tend to continue making the same foods that we ate in the US. With the absence of some products here, a few of our old favorites are not able to be made, but, surprisingly, you can almost always find a way to either make substitutions or make homemade versions of items that can’t be found in the store here. We have incorporated a few Dutch foods into our meal repertoire though. We really enjoy erwtensoep in the winter-essentially pea soup that is eaten pretty thick and with Dutch rookworst (smoked sausage) cut up in it. Also, we eat stamppot which consists of potatoes and other vegetables such as carrot, onion and kale mashed up. This is then served with some kind of meat, typically sausage such as the rookworst mentioned above.

So where do we go to get the groceries for these meals? Most Dutch people will divide their shopping between small specialized shops, grocery stores and markets (open air stalls). While we mainly stick to the grocery stores, there are small stores for bakery items and cheese as well as butchers. You can also find small produce, organic and ethnic stores. Markets most often have produce, fish, cheese, flowers and other non consumable goods. You also often find stalls for spices and nuts.

nut stall

A wide variety of cheese can be found everywhere, even at the grocery stores, but for a larger selection of meat and fish, it is best to go to specialty stores or the market. While there are definitely pork items, it can be harder to find pork products because there are many halal butchers who cannot carry pork items due to the large number of Muslim immigrant and refugee groups here. Also, the Dutch do not consume a lot of turkey so ground turkey, turkey hot dogs or turkey bacon are not available. And yes, this means they do not carry turkey at the holidays. If you want one, you need to go to the American expat store or to a poulier (a poultry shop) and order it. As far as fish goes, the most commonly found would be salmon and cod. Shrimp and mussels are also highly available as is herring. If you go to a fish market stall, you can find many different kinds of fish as well as other items from the sea such as octopus. And if fish is your thing, you can always stop at the stalls and order some kibbling which is breaded, fried fish (usually cod) that comes in a small basket and is eaten with a toothpick and maybe dipped in a sauce. It’s usually very fresh and quite good.

In the stores, you can find most of the produce that you need, but the markets definitely have a wider selection and more exotic items. While there is a good variety of produce to be found, you generally hear one of two things about Dutch produce-either people say it is tasteless or they say it tastes fresher than produce they have had in the States. I haven’t noticed things being tasteless myself. Of course, much of the food in The Netherlands is grown in greenhouses. In fact, The Netherlands is actually the world’s second largest exporter of food. The Netherlands takes a possible shortage of food due to increasing demand very seriously and are actively working to find new ways to grow more food in less space. Also, chemical pesticides are not used on the produce in the greenhouses. Likewise, less antibiotic hormones are used on the poultry and livestock here. Actually, in general less synthetics used to prolong shelf life are used here. What this means is that things will go bad pretty fast, especially in the heat of summer with no air conditioning, but they have less artificial additives. You may also find interesting that eggs do not need to be refrigerated here. This is because they are not sprayed with the chemical spray used in the US to clean the eggs. That chemical spray likely damages the outer shell of the egg which makes bacteria growth more likely unless the egg is refrigerated.

So there you have it-hopefully everything you ever wanted to know about food in The Netherlands. For more details on foods that you can find here that are unique to The Netherlands or originated here, you can read my past blog post at https://terisacunha.com/2019/04/04/bon-appetit-or-eet-smakelijk/. And if you still have burning questions about something food related, be sure to just ask in the comments. I’m sure I can be persuaded to do a little food research if you need me too!

A Time for Remembrance, A Time for Celebration

While WWII was an important war for many countries, including the USA, little is done to continue commemorating the war in those places.  That is not the case for many European countries, including The Netherlands.  I find their commemoration quite interesting and thought that perhaps some of you might as well.  So as Remembrance Day and Liberation Day are upon us, I am sharing a little about the events.

On May 4th, the Dutch begin the commemoration with Remembrance Day.  This day began as a day to remember those who lost their lives in WWII.  Since the 1960s, this day has also been designated for remembering those who lost their lives in other wars and peacekeeping missions, much like Memorial Day in the United States.  The difference, though, is that Remembrance Day is meant to remember all victims whether military or civilian whereas Memorial Day is generally reserved for remembering military personnel who lost their lives in military service or combat.

remem day 2

On Remembrance Day, a national ceremony is held in Dam Square in Amsterdam following a service in the church there.  The King and Queen and other dignitaries proceed from the church service to the square and lay wreaths at the foot of the national war memorial in the square.  Church bells ring for 15 minutes followed by two minutes of silence at 8:00pm which is observed by the entire country (traffic and public transport, flight takeoffs and activity in restaurants even come to a stop).  Following the moments of silence, more wreaths are laid for:

  • people who were murdered because they were in the resistance
  • Jews, Roma and Sinti who were persecuted and murdered
  • civilians who were casualties of war
  • civilians in Asia who died as a result of the Japanese occupation
  • soldiers and merchant seaman who have died in service

In addition, school children (one for each year of liberation in The Netherlands) and people from organizations representing the different groups affected by the war lay flowers.  All of this plus somber and poignant music, speeches, and performances are broadcast on national television.   It is very important to the Dutch that these people and events are not forgotten.

remem day 1

The end of the Remembrance Day ceremony marks the beginning of Liberation Day which is a bank holiday every five years.  On May 5th, The Netherlands commemorates the day the Nazi occupation ended in the country, and it is a day for celebration.  A Liberation flame is lit shortly before midnight on May 4th in Wageningen, where the historic documents of Nazi surrender were signed.  Torches are then taken by runners, cyclists, and inline skaters to other Libration fires all over the country.  During the day, there are military parades and music festivals and concerts around the country.  The Dutch flag is displayed at many homes and businesses and the Dutch are encouraged to think about their freedom and its importance.

lib day 1lib day 2

But don’t think that the Dutch have forgotten that they were not wholly responsible for their liberation.  The country has the utmost respect for the countries that assisted them in ending the Nazi occupation.  The nation was liberated by Canadian forces, British infantry divisions, the British I Corps, the 1st Polish Armoured Division, American, Belgian, Dutch, and Czechoslovak troops, and the flags of these nations and groups are flown on vehicles in the parades around the country.  In addition, throughout the year, in the town of Margraten, where one of the US WWII cemeteries is located, local citizens tend the graves.  Many American soldiers stopped in Margraten before crossing into Germany during the war, and they often stayed in the homes of Margraten families.  Their sacrifices have never been forgotten, and the amount of respect and gratitude felt for them is so great that the people of Margraten do more than just tend the graves.  Families adopt specific graves, take flowers and other mementos throughout the year, and, in some cases, are in communication with the surviving family members of those soldiers.  The adoptive families take it so seriously that they pass down the tending from generation to generation.  In addition, thousands of Margraten citizens fill the cemetery and place Dutch and American flags at the graves for a large Memorial Day celebration each year.

SONY DSC
SONY DSC

And while WWII involved many non-European nations, the war seems much less removed in Europe.  The evidence of the war can be seen more readily here, the effects are more apparent in everyday life and the memories and lessons of the war years and liberation are never far from Dutch minds.  These yearly commemorations are very important days for the Dutch and serve to remind us not only of the atrocities so that they are not repeated, but also of perseverance, gratitude, hope, joy, and the celebration of freedom.

 

It’s All About the House

For those of you that don’t know, we recently bought our house in The Netherlands and have been doing a few upgrades-both items involving a process unlike what we experience in the US.

Buying a house in The Netherlands is quite an easy process actually.  As we didn’t have to look at homes, we just went to an agent (he charged a flat rate fee since he was mostly handling paperwork which we billed us for about a month after we finalized the purchase of the house) and he assisted us with the paperwork to make an offer and directed us to someone who could help with financing.  Unlike in the US, there isn’t a need to look over all documents with a fine-tooth comb.  In The Netherlands, the government has actually designed these contracts to protect the buyer.  Our poor US-centric minds couldn’t quite accept that, so we did still review the documents as best we could (being that they were in Dutch), but in the end, I don’t think it was wholly necessary.  After that, we had an estimator come out to establish the value of the home and then established our financing which was also very straight forward and designed to protect rather than snare you unsuspectingly.  There were no inspections necessary; you could pay if you wanted to, but we were assured that since our home is newer construction, there was no need.  In fact, it seems inspections here might have more to do with structural issues due to sinking ground and water levels.  In fact, there does not appear to be any building code standards that are used as some very shady electrical and plumbing work had previously been done in the house (don’t worry, we knew there was a problem and had the previous owner pay to fix it before the sale went through).  Then at the closing, we went over the papers and signed (this took less than 1 hour) and we were Holland homeowners!

After the papers were signed, we decided to have our tile floors changed to laminate.  After searching for well-reviewed companies, we went to the store to inquire about options and pricing.  As it turns out, everything happens in the store.  Unlike in the US, no one comes out to measure the rooms and determine what extra items are needed to finish the edges or to evaluate your current flooring to determine what to lay down as an underlayer.  You give them the measurements (good thing we had floorplans with all of that), and you tell them what you want (luckily they will make some suggestions based on the information you give them or pictures you have).  Since they weren’t sure what we would like to finish the edges, they charged us for two options and told us that after we decided onsite, they would take the unused product back and refund the money.  They held true to their word, and the job was finished without complaint from us.  Our next project along those lines is to have our stairs redone, but for the life of us, we have yet to find someone who will do this work.

We also had painters come and redo the outside trim.  This was quite a lengthy process as they had to scrape all of the existing trim, prime and then hand paint everything including our front and garage doors.  During the painting process, we had to have all of the windows and doors open for hours so that the inside trim could dry.   This was a very cold process since it was well into fall here (we had tried to get the painting done months before that, but the painters were busy and couldn’t come for a month, and then it kept raining daily making painting impossible).  And the craziest part- before they knew I would be home most of the time, the painters asked for a key to the house so that they could open doors and windows as needed, which felt very weird to me.

Now, perhaps the strangest thing about all of this installation and repair work is that Dutch workers take a lot of breaks.  And often, the expectation is that you should provide hospitality during these breaks.  Being very American, I really never offer anything.  In fact, it never really occurs to me that I should, but our electrician did ask if I could make him coffee one of the days that he was here, and the painters asked if they could come in and use my kitchen table to eat their morning snack during their break (I decided to leave the room).  All of the workers used our bathroom freely or asked to come in and use it (they even made a point of coming in and using it at the end of the workday before they left-maybe normal for them, but I thought they should just hold it until they got home!).

So, you see, even things like home buying and repair can be quite strange and foreign in another land.  It’s a nice reminder that while you need to function and belong, you don’t quite belong.  But, surviving the process is also a nice reminder that, even when things feel strange and you don’t quite understand the process, you can still survive and get things done.  Here’s to another day of making it in this so-called Dutch life!

 

Medical Misadventures

After one year, maybe you thought there would no longer be misadventures.  But, I am here to prove that, as an expat, there can always be misadventures!  We were very lucky in the past year and didn’t have to make any doctor or vet visits, but recently we had to jump headfirst into medical care abroad!

First off, we needed to get a longterm pain in our daughter’s elbow evaluated.  The first step in using medical care in The Netherlands begins when you first arrive.  You must pick a doctor as a primary doctor.  You can not just pick anyone though.  The doctor you choose must live near your home.  We were informed that the reason for this is that some doctors will still make housecalls if necessary, so their office needs to be near your home.  Also, for those used to things in the US, you do not pick a pediatrician for your children.  They too use the primary doctor and may be referred to a pediatrician if necessary.  And there is no need to check if a doctor is on your insurance.  While there are variations in what is covered/amounts based on the plan, insurance covers the medical expenses regardless of where they are received.

Once we knew we needed to see the doctor, we called and were able to get an appointment very quickly, even though it was holiday time here, and we were not sick or with an emergency.  The doctor listened to the symptoms and made some preliminary predictions, but suggested we go get an Xray to verify that there was nothing fractured.  We immediately went to the hospital where the radiologist is located.  Upon arriving, you have to first register at a desk in the main lobby area (you only have to do this once; if you have registered before and are in the system, you can skip this step).  After registering, we had to then find radiology and take a number.  As a side note, when we were called in, the person receiving an Xray before us was leaving, and it was quite exciting to find it was a man being escorted by four police officers!  Receiving your Xray is just like receiving one in the US except that they do not use any kind of protective vest on the patient as they would in many situations in the US (this held true for dental Xrays as well).

As soon as the Xray results were sent to the primary doctor, they decided to refer us to a pediatrician as there was nothing on the Xray that would indicate the reason for the pain.  They do work on a referral basis here in The Netherlands, so you do need to receive a referral to see most specialist doctors.  As soon as we received the referral, we called the pediatrician, whose office is located in the hospital, to make an appointment.  Again, they were able to schedule an appointment for a date within a week of the date we called.

Here is where things began to get a little different.  When we arrived for our appointment at the pediatrician, we signed in and were sent down the hall and around the corner to an office where a woman looked us up in the computer and then took height and weight measurements.  She imputed the information and then sent us back to the waiting room for the pediatrician (which was also the waiting room for a gynecologist and perhaps some other specialists as well).  When they called us, we went into a room that looked like your average room at a pediatrician’s office, but, in addition to the exam table and sink, it also had a desk with a computer and chairs as you would find in an office.  This is where we sat while the “doctor” informed us that she is actually a doctor in training and will consult with her supervisor who was not present at this time.  She asked a lot of questions and then finally asked my daughter to sit on the exam table while she did some manipulation of her arm and hands to test some things.  After this, she exited a rear door in the room to retell everything to the actual doctor and consult with her.  About 10 minutes later, she returned with the supervising doctor and they told us what they thought might be going on.  They also said, that since they are not certain, they would be consulting the next day with some rheumatologists and Xray technicians that they meet with monthly for further review of our case.  We left with a referral to a physiotherapist and a promise that they would call the next day with the results of their conversation.  The next day, they called several times, but we missed the calls and they left no information (though they did make an attempt to call after hours which was nice).  On the second day, we finally managed to speak to them in person, and they told us that they wanted us to do some bloodwork just to rule out arthritis.

The bloodwork was made very convenient.  We were able to go in the next day, they explained.  As the doctor informed us, we should just go in and tell them that we had a blood draw order, and, before leaving, we should make an appointment for one week later to receive a phone call from the doctor to receive the results.  It all seemed so simple, but as an expat, simple things are not always simple.  The lab was, of course, also located in the hospital, so we ventured back, and, since we did not know where the lab was located, we headed to the front desk to ask.  Here we had a slight language difficulty, but they sent us to the lab.  Hurdle one was out of the way.

Upon arriving at the lab, there were two people at a counter receiving patients.  We walked up and were promptly informed we needed to get a number.  We found a digital machine issuing numbers, but, of course, all options were in Dutch.  Using our very limited language skills and the power of deductive reasoning, we were able to obtain a number which was immediately (I mean within 1 second of spitting out of the machine) called to the counter.  I told the clerk that we were sent by the pediatrician to receive a blood draw.  He asked for my paper.  I did not have one.  In a rather curt manner, he informed me that we needed to go to the pediatrician’s office to obtain it.  Then he told me to get a “B” number and leave it with him so he could help us when we returned and pointed to the number machine.  Now, I had barely figured out how to get a number at all, let alone a special “B” number, and he certainly was not going to assist me as he just kept saying B number and pointing to the machine.  So, after staring at the machine for several seconds, an older Dutch woman walked up to get her own number.  I asked her how to get a B number, and she showed me what to press.  B number in hand, I returned to the counter to leave it with the clerk, and then headed up to the pediatrician’s office.  Hurdle two-done!

At the pediatrician’s office, I was met by a receptionist who first began asking for my daughter’s date of birth in Dutch, even though I had explained what we needed in English-hence she probably knew that I didn’t speak Dutch.  This is fine because maybe English is not strong for her and she prefers Dutch, so I made an attempt to understand what she was saying but wasn’t quite getting it, at which point she said it in English.  I answered, and she promptly went back to Dutch to ask for our last name.  That time I did get it, but asked, in English, to verify that I had the correct meaning.  She found us in the system, printed our lab order and said something else to me in Dutch before sending us on our way.  Now, I have no problem with people not speaking English or even expecting that I speak Dutch, but when she knew I couldn’t and she clearly could speak English, I’m not sure why she was making me struggle (especially in a medical setting where you might be having some anxieties anyway).

But, hurdle three out of the way, we headed back to the lab where we approached the clerk who had taken our B number.  He told us that his colleague would instead help us, so we moved to her counter.  She took our paperwork, said one thing, and then told us we needed to step aside.  She helped someone else and then called us back.  The chaos of what was happening was beginning to make my head spin and my daughter was also having some anxiety about having her blood drawn, so I was starting to feel the pressure.  After verifying our information, the clerk told us to watch for our number.  After a few seconds, our number came up on the screen, but I realized I didn’t really know what to do when the number appeared.  She had told us to go to an automatic door in the room when we were called, so we did.  The door admitted us into a room with several lab tech stations set up, but I didn’t know which one to go to.  Finally, the tech called us over and then began to speak in Dutch.  When my daughter said she didn’t speak Dutch, we got a very strange look and then, I believe seeing my daughter’s anxiety, she became a little friendlier and proceeded to do the draw.  As soon as it was done, we followed the exit signs.  All hurdles were complete!

It was only after we were almost back to the parking garage and my shoulders were starting to relax that I realized I had forgotten to make the appointment for our results call.  I had no idea if I was supposed to make this at the lab or with the Dutch-only receptionist in the pediatrician’s office, but I was not about to go back in to find out.  Later we had to call to schedule it, and they told us that it was no longer possible to schedule an exact time, but they would just call us some time on the following Friday.  Luckily, we were able to answer the phone when they called.  They informed us that the results were fine and that they would call back in 5 months to see how the elbow is doing.  Quite an ordeal!  I’m not sure if I breathed a bigger sigh of relief over the fact that the results were favorable or that I was done with that process.  You see, you can often fit in within the confines of your daily life as an expat, but something that is outside the norms of what you “know” in another country can be overwhelming and make you really feel how much you don’t really belong.

But, for those of you who have stuck with me through this long post and are still curious about other forms of medical interventions, we can also report on the dentist and orthodontist.  The dentist is much the same as in the US, however, when you schedule, you choose whether you would like a 15 minute, 30 minute or 45 minute cleaning session and whether or not you would like to see the dentist for an exam with your cleaning or just have the hygienist clean.  Also, you can determine how often you want to go in for a cleaning, although the insurance (at least the plan that we have) only covers one cleaning a year.  We have been informed, though, that the costs of dental care (routine items anyway) is so low, that the insurance really only saves you a few dollars and thus many Dutch people do not carry dental insurance.  The orthodontist is also similar to the US, although, one thing that I have found different, is that you don’t actually see the orthodontist each time you go in.  In fact, the assistant put the braces on and the orthodontist didn’t even check them.  Also, the time between appointments seems to be more like 6-8 weeks instead of 5-6 weeks.  The cost for orthodontics is also very inexpensive compared to the US.  We will pay about half of what we paid with insurance and a prepay discount in the US.  But, children’s orthodontics here are covered through the parent’s health insurance plan rather than a dental plan.

Finally, we can also speak to the medical care of pets here in The Netherlands as our dogs recently decided to injure one another necessitating a visit outside of the annual exam they had received a month prior.  The annual exam was similar to the one in the US in which the vet examined the animals and administered vaccinations, the difference being that some of the required/suggested vaccinations are different than US requirements/suggestions.  Also, they administered the vaccinations in a nasal spray format rather than by injection (not sure my dogs were big fans of this).  The procedure in an emergency was very similar to the US.  The most seriously injured dog received antibiotics and pain medications while the less serious received a natural cream to rub on the swollen/bitten leg as well as a pain medication.  The main difference, again, was that the costs for these treatments were a fraction of what we would have paid in the US.

Fingers crossed that this is all that I will be able to report from the medical front in The Netherlands.  In the meantime, you can rest easy knowing that we have survived a few more misadventures!

 

The Day the Exam Results Came In

Yesterday was a big day for kids in their final year of school in The Netherlands.  It was the day that the results of their national exams came in.  Each student in Dutch schools that is at the end of their secondary school time takes school leaving examinations-some for the school itself and some that are national exams. Everyone that takes the national exams receives a call sometime during the day to let them know whether or not they passed their exam.  If they passed, they fly the flag of The Netherlands outside of their house and hang their backpack with the flag.  This is a celebration of their achievement and to let everyone know that they passed and have completed secondary school.  As we came home from school yesterday, it was apparent that many of our neighbors had received their call because there were several flags and backpacks dotting the street.  Just another different tradition that we have been able to learn about and witness.

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