Spring in The Netherlands

Spring appears to be here in The Netherlands.  While it’s taken a little while to convince the sun to come out and stay, it seems like we may finally be on the right track.  Unlike where we are from in the States, the grasses have stayed green here all winter, but now it’s time for the flowers to bloom and the trees and shrubs to bud out.

The flowers are blooming, not just in people’s gardens, but in parks and along roadways.  Many medians have an impressive plethora of daffodil plantings which have been brightening our days even with cloudy skies.

The trees have also been quite beautiful with their pink and white blossoms.

On a recent sunny day, we took a bike ride and came upon many signs of spring blossoming (and one giant sheep!).

Finally, the gardens are starting to come to life as well.

All of these signs of life are a welcome sight here and we can’t wait to see what the coming weeks will bring, but for now, the sun is shining and there are pretty flowers in my yard, so I’m off to enjoy it!

Fun in the Sun in Portugal

Our past week was spent in sunny Portugal and while it was not a place I had ever thought of visiting when living in the US, we really enjoyed it (not to mention the food and wine) and we actually learned some new things!

Day 1:  We arrived in Lisbon and headed to our apartment for the week where we got to drive our car into an elevator to park it on a lower level-interesting!

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Then we ventured out to get dinner at a restaurant serving traditional dishes.  We started the dinner with a Portuguese cheese board including sheep cheese which has a fairly strong taste.  For the meal, we tried octopus (very good), duck risotto and fish and shrimp risotto along with some local beer, wine and port.  For dessert, we tried a rice pudding and an egg yolk pudding cooked with bacon (sorry, we ate it before we thought about taking a picture) which was very good.

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After dinner, we decided to walk around a bit and we learned the first lesson about Lisbon-what goes down must also come back up!

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Day 2:  On our second day, we headed out of Lisbon to Evora, about 1.5 hours east.  As we were driving, we saw tons of storks nesting in the utility towers.

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Once in Evora, we walked around the Praca Giraldo (open square with shops and restaurants as well as a church) and went into the church (note the wood and stone floor-different than many European churches that we have seen).

 

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Next, we toured the Church of Sao Francisco, which had a lot of Portuguese tilework, statues and dolls.  The walls were also rainbow in some places due to the stained glass.

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Next to the church was the Capela Ossuary (the bone chapel) and a small museum featuring a special exhibit of nativities from around the world.

 

 

Finally, it was time for lunch and we decided to go all out with dishes traditional to this region of the country.  We shared Seafood Migas and Black Pork Migas (migas basically referring to a type of stuffing dish and black pork being thin pieces of grilled pork), Sopa de Cacao (shark fish soup) and Acordas (cilantro seasoned soup eaten with bacalhau-dried, salted cod and egg).  For both soups, there was regional bread and we couldn’t pass up some regional red wine as well.  We finished it all off with Toucinho de Ceu for dessert (an almond pie that uses pork lard in its preparation).

 

After lunch, we walked to the Evora Cathedral and the town’s Roman ruins.  We took a walk through the old town streets to the Aquaduct and then headed back to Praca Giraldo where we decided that all that walking entitled us to stop in a bakery and try a selection of pastries from the region including Queijada Evora, Queijada de Ceu, Pastel de Nata (egg custard pastry), Queijada de Coco (coconut pastry) and Pao de Rala.

 

On the way back from Evora, we stopped at Almendes which is a Neolithic stone site.  The stones date from 4,000-6,000 B.C.   There were also a lot of cork trees growing in this area- cork products are everywhere here.

 

 

Once back in Lisbon, we had another traditional Lisbon dish for dinner-Piri Piri chicken.  It is essentially a roasted chicken that you eat with an oil sauce that is very spicy.

Day 3: On our third day, we went to Sintra which is just less than an hour west of Lisbon.  We began at the westernmost point in Europe, Cabo Roca.  It was very quiet and we had some beautiful views of the water and the rocky beach.

 

 

The rest of the day was spent walking nearly 29,000 steps (most of which were uphill!) as we visited the castles and palaces of Sintra.  We began at Quinta Regalaria which had beautiful carved wood ceilings.   The real gem of the palace area though was the gardens.  They were immense and contained all sorts of grottos, caves and ornamental decorations and structures.

 

 

Next, we visited Monserrate.  We walked through pretty tropical gardens on the way to this Asian/Indian style mansion which contained some elaborate stonework.

 

Next up was the Moorish Castle (Portugal has a long history with the Moors).  There were a lot of stairs at this one, but we walked around the remains of the area which essentially added up to a wall with towers and saw a few archeological sites.

 

 

Last up was Pena Palace-another uphill battle getting there, but it was a very interesting style of building.  It seemed to have some elements of Asian influence but was also somewhat European.  It was home to the royal family but the rooms inside were very small with low ceilings, unlike other European castles.

 

 

On our way out of the palace park, we walked through an area called the Valley of Lakes.

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If you have learned anything about us and our travels by now, you have probably guessed that by this point we were ready to try some local treats.  So, we headed to old town Sintra which was mostly tourist shops but also contains Casa Puriquita-a little bakery known for its Queijada da Sintra and Travesseiro (which means pillow).  If you recall, we also had Queijada in Evora but these were denser and more cinnamon flavored.  The Travesseiro was a very light pastry with an almond paste type of filling.

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And if you thought we were done eating, you are crazy!  We headed back to Lisbon for dinner at a restaurant with lovely views of the city.

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Here we had bacalhau a bras-dried, salted cod mixed with onion strings and shoestring potatoes-really delicious.  We also tried a port tonic (made with white port) and a tawny port.  If you have never had a port, I highly recommend it!

Day 4:  Today we spent the first part of the day in Sesimbra (about an hour south of Lisbon).  We began the day at Cabo Espichel, a lighthouse on the coastline.  Next, we took a very windy walk through the coastal area to a dinosaur track site (if you see the large indentations in the rock to the bottom middle of the bottom picture- that’s them!).

 

 

Next, we headed to the Castelo Sesimbra- the remains of a fortress wall and a small church with lots of blue tilework and a graveyard.

After the castle area, we went to Urso and California Beaches and stopped for some Bifana for lunch (a very small sandwich with a very thin piece of pork-don’t worry, we made up for it later!).

After leaving the beach, we drove back to Lisbon to go to Torre de Belem (a tower which was often the last thing that explorers like da Gama would see when leaving Portugal) and the Padro dos Descobimentos (a massive sculpture celebrating the age of discovery in Portugal).  And yes, if you think that bridge looks familiar, it was designed by the same people that designed the Golden Gate Bridge.

Across from these landmarks, is the Monastery of Jeronimo that boasts a sanctuary with ornate stonework, more of the statues and dolls found in the Portuguese churches and the tomb of Vasco da Gama (the famous Portuguese explorer).

And then, as I told you, we made up for our small lunch by eating a ton of Pastel de Nata (the egg custard pastry) from the famous (and the only ones with the original recipe) Pastel de Belem.  You eat these little pastries with powdered sugar and cinnamon sprinkled on top.  They are very good and a little addictive.  While these were our only ones from Pastel de Belem, we may have found another place in Lisbon that was our supplier several additional times!!  But at Pastel de Belem, we also had a few pastel de carne, and for my Brazilian friends and family, it was very different from the ones featuring carne moida.  It was more like shredded beef.

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After our snack, we stopped by the Basilica da Estrela which had very pretty stonework and some very large statues near the ceiling.

On our way to dinner, we stopped at A Ginjinha which is a famous distributor of the popular Lisbon drink, ginjinha, which is made with sour cherries infused in liquor.  The stand itself is just that.  You walk up to a small open doorway with a counter (and the stickiest floor I have ever encountered), order your drink and then stand off to the side in the square to drink.

At dinner, we tried some grilled cod and Portuguese meat while the kids ate an Alheira sausage.  The sausage is made of bread like stuffing and various meats, most of which are not pork.  This particular version was fried on the outside, but we also tried one a few days later that was not.  It was quite different and very soft, but it had really good flavor.

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Day 5: Finally, we stayed in Lisbon on our fifth day.  We started the day with a walk down from our apartment to a lower square where we stopped into the Sao Domingo church which had very pretty rose-colored ceilings and very dilapidated, worn walls.

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Next, we took the famous Tram 28 to the St. George Castle area.

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In this area, we stopped in the Cathedral of Lisbon (note the interesting door frames that you have to step through).  Inside the Cathedral, they had a small dressing room displaying the vestiges of the priests and bishops.

After leaving the Cathedral, we stumbled upon the ruins of a Roman theater on our way up (yes, uphill) to the castle.

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At the castle, we saw the gardens (with tons of peacocks in the trees-we even saw one flying), an artifact collection, archeological ruins and the remains of the castle itself (again mostly just walls and towers).  They also had a periscope camera by which they give you an aerial tour of Lisbon.

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In the afternoon, we walked around the Praca do Comercio and the Rossio district and then rode the tram around more areas of the city.

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Here are a few of the sites from around the city including a store featuring all of the cork products you can purchase, the Christ statue overlooking the city, a massive elevator in one of the city districts and some of the many buildings with the tiled walls for decorative purposes.

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I also really love this street that was right by our apartment with all the laundry.  One day we got stuck behind this “trash truck”-guess it’s the only truck that can pick up trash that is small enough to fit the street.

 

And finally, who can resist this really cool store featuring cans of sardines.  There were tons of fancy sardine stores like this around the city.  The displays-cool, the product-not so much!

 

For dinner, we ventured to the Bairro Alto district and tried a selection of Portuguese meats and Acorda de Gamba (shrimp in stuffing dish-very good).

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Day 6: On the sixth day, we again headed out of Lisbon to the north.  First, we stopped in Fatima to see the church there that was built after three children saw a vision of the Virgin Mary.  It is a massive compound featuring several sanctuaries and praying areas.

Next, we drove to Porto which is 3 hours to the north of Lisbon.  Our first stop was lunch at Cafe Santiago where we had the famous Francesinha sandwich featuring sausage, steak and ham in a sandwich topped with a fried egg, cheese and a special gravy and surrounded by french fries.  We also tried Portuguese beer, a green wine and some port.  And we once again ordered Toucinha de Ceu for dessert (the almond pie cooked with bacon lard).

After lunch, we wandered the city seeing many churches including Santo Ildefonso, Santa Clara, the Cathedral of Porto, Sao Francisco, Clerigos Church and Igreja do Carmo.  Our favorite was probably Santa Clara because we got a private tour.  The church features lots of wood covered with gold leaf (sadly you could not take pictures).

We also walked down the narrow old streets to the Cais Ribeiro area near the water where you can get a good look at the Dom Luis I bridge (built by a student of Eiffel).

On our walk, we were able to get an up-close look at some of the tiles that you can find on so many of the building facades in Portugal.

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We also stopped by many historic buildings including the municipal building, the stock exchange building and the Estacao Sao Bento (train station) which was very beautiful with all of its tilework.

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And of course, no trip would be complete without stopping for some local foods like this massive bread (this was just one-quarter of the whole piece) called Broa de Avintes and a few pastries like this almond pastry and Jesuitas (puff pastry with a meringue top).

On our way back to Lisbon, we stopped in Coimbra for dinner at a restaurant located outside of a famous monument.

Day 7:  On our final day, we spent the morning on the balcony of our apartment enjoying the sun and the view before wandering around a park area near the apartment which featured a statue for a famous doctor and hundreds of little stones carved with thanks to this doctor for watching over or healing loved ones (the doctor died in the 1800’s but apparently people still ask his spirit for protection of the sick).

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After lunch at the restaurant with the nice views, we decided to hit up our Pastel de Nata supplier one last time for a few of the treats before leaving the city!

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Portugal was a lot of fun, the food was great and we saw many beautiful places and buildings.  We are definitely glad we visited and hope you enjoyed coming along for the ride.  And if you are tired after reading this post, get ready because we have another travel adventure coming up in just a few short weeks.  Until next time!

The First Signs of Spring

Here in Rotterdam, the sun is shining and the temperature has reached into the upper 50’s and that can only mean one thing: the people are out in droves.  The outdoor seating is filled with people, street musicians are out playing and the masses are stopped to listen.  Now don’t get me wrong, the Dutch were never hidden away for fear of the cold and dreary days.  Quite to the contrary, people are out walking and cycling in all sorts of weather, and, regardless of the weather, they still sit outside to dine thanks to portable heaters and blankets on every seat.  But, there were definitely more people out and the mood was definitely lighter and more celebratory on these “first sign of Spring days.”  In fact, it was almost as if everyone had stopped work early on a recent Friday just to sit around the cafes and restaurants, socialize and soak up the sun (which very well may be the case with the Dutch attitude toward personal and family time).  We were able to join the rest of the city in sitting outside for a meal and enjoying some time in the great outdoors by venturing to a park and checking out these Highland cows and their babies.

Who knows what the weather will bring before Spring and Summer are actually here but flowers are blooming, ducks are coupling up (there are going to be lots of babies soon!), people are out and about and the mood is noticeably lighter.  Bring on Spring!

 

Straight From the Kid’s Mouth

Over the weekend we were speaking to our son about his thoughts on living in The Netherlands.  He told us that he likes it here and his favorite thing about living here is:

1) That he meets people from lots of different places at his school and gets to learn about their cultures and

2) That we can travel to other countries pretty easily.

He enjoys “being with the family and going to places like Belgium” where his favorite things is “eating Belgium waffles.”  He also enjoys going to the park near our house, biking to school and seeing the Politie (police) that use horses.

He did acknowledge that it can be hard and that he has missed friends and family from back home and that adjusting to a new school and classroom was a bit of a challenge at first, but he said it helps that he can talk to his grandmother back home.

Overall, he seems to be enjoying himself and his exposure to new and different things!

Trying to Beat the Winter Blues

It’s been several weeks since my last post and some of you may be wondering what we’ve been up to.  The truth of the matter is that, while we live in Europe, it’s not fun and adventure all the time.  Since New Year’s, we’ve just been in the trenches of life for the most part.  The kids have gone back to school and, consequently, we are back to homework and afterschool activities.  Post-holiday work life has resumed as well as the normal household chores.  So, basically, life abroad is just like life in the US!

But, just like I’m sure many of you are doing, we have tried to do a few things to pass the cold, dull winter days.

First, I went to the movie theater (first time here) with some friends.  There were a few things that were a little different than the theater back home.  The main one-we biked there!  It’s not like you have to bike there, but, of course, there is no parking lot at the theater; it’s good old garage or meter parking if you drive so we figured why add to the cost when we could get a little exercise in for free (added bonus-it was sunny that day so we got to enjoy the weather)!  Just like at home, we bought our tickets from a self-service machine, but (and this is my favorite part) the concessions were also self-service (I’m not sure if they always are or if they have people to assist and check you out on weekends when it would be busier).  The concessions look like a small convenience store.  There are displays with candy dispensers.  There is a refrigerated section with drinks (including alcoholic beverages).  There is a salsa bar, an ice cream machine, a bar for wine, a Starbucks counter, an Icee machine and various other snacks.  And then there is the popcorn.  There are different choices like salty, sweet and salty and deluxe as well as different sizes, but they are all already dispensed into buckets and you just open the door to a warmer section and pull out what you want.  And aside from the extra butter that I usually add at the theater back home, it tasted just the same.  After you have made your selections (what, you are having a Smirnoff Ice with your popcorn?? ), you move to a self-checkout machine, scan your items, and pay.  Now you can head to your seat.  And for those wondering, the movie was in English with Dutch subtitles.  They also have movies in Dutch.  The theater was a bit pricier than at home (no matinee pricing) but otherwise very nice.

In addition to the movie outing, our family has gone to several museums (indoor locations being preferable right now).  We went to a couple of modern art museums and a natural history museum as well as a museum focusing on William the Silent (remember when we learned about him way back in the summer and fall when we visited Delft and Dordrecht?) and a museum with works of the Dutch masters such as Rembrandt, Vermeer and Rubens.  We really like the William the Silent museum which is called the Prisenhof.  It had some interesting history and you can see the bullet holes in the wall where William the Silent was assassinated back in the 1500s.  They also had a section on the Delft blue pottery which was nice.  The Dutch Masters museum which is called the Maurithuis was also nice.  It was small but that seemed to be just the right size for younger folks not to lose interest.  We were able to see several well-known works of art including the Girl with the Pearl Earring.

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Back of the Maurithuis Museum

Finally, this past week, we’ve engaged in a little snow time.  There was not a lot of accumulation but enough snow on the ground for the kids to build a snowman and it was cold enough for the canals and the lake to freeze (at least on the surface).  We also had our first experience with biking in the snow.  It wasn’t too bad except for the residential streets that were basically just packed down ice.  I may or may not have taken a tumble when I had to turn the wheel to get out of a car’s way prompting us to instead walk to school the next day.  The beauty of that is that now, in addition to the time we walked in the rain, the kids can also tell their children that they had to walk to school in the snow (and there is a small portion that is uphill though we did not attempt it barefoot!).

 

So, there you have it.  Nothing too exciting, but we’re still here trying to make the most of our life in The Netherlands even amidst the humdrum days of normal life and cloudy, cold winters.  Here’s hoping Spring is just around the corner (I’ll drink a Smirnoff Ice and eat some popcorn to that)!!

*just for the record, I had coconut flavored water with my popcorn, not Smirnoff Ice-but I could have!

Starting the New Year with a Bang (or Hundreds of Them)!

Our typical New Year’s Eve is pretty quiet.  We have spent many New Years doing nothing at all and some hanging out with a small group of friends who generally go home well before midnight.  This year we decided to stay home and have a private party for our family.  We decided to let the kids stay up until midnight for the first time ever as we were informed that there was no way they would be able to sleep through the multitude of explosions at midnight.

To say that the Dutch love their fireworks for New Year’s Eve would be an understatement.  Early in the day on New Year’s Eve, our neighbor came by to warn us about the evening and explain what typically happens in our area.  She said they would be moving their cars to another location as there would be a lot of fireworks in the street out front but since ours’ are in the garage, we would be fine.  Around midday, we biked to the store.  There were tons of people on the street: much more than normal as many were on holiday.  As we were biking away from the store, an explosion went off right in front of the door to the store.  Apparently, grocery storefronts are a popular area for teenage boys to set off fireworks.  After that, we stayed safe inside our house and enjoyed our family party.  We snacked on Dutch food and prepared oliebollen, a fried donut type treat, to have with champagne-a Dutch tradition for New Year.

All evening we could hear fireworks going off and we wisely decided to medicate one of our animals, but there were no scares other than when we were walking upstairs and a firework exploded right in front of our hallway window between our house and the neighbor’s.  As midnight approached, we headed upstairs to see what we could see out of our windows.  We were not disappointed!  At midnight, massive fireworks commenced all around the area.  From our windows, we had a panoramic view that was awesome! 20190101_000127

Our animals, however, were less than thrilled.  Even the medicated one was hiding and another urinated all over himself.   We opened our window to lean out and look at the display and one of our neighbors saw us and invited us to come out front.  In the front, many of the neighbors were out walking around and wishing each other a Happy New Year.  They were also setting off large fireworks very close to all of us, the houses and cars.

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At times it felt like the sparks were going to rain down on us.  Some of the people were wearing special glasses to protect their eyes from the light, but I think they might have needed protective wear for their ears as the booms and pops were nearly deafening at times.  After watching the show out front, people wandered back inside, and while we were told that there is only a twenty-minute window for setting off the fireworks, the booms continued until 1-2am.  And much like in the US, we continue to hear some each evening.  All in all, it was a festive and fun way to start the new year (dogs, cats, birds and other animals likely disagree) and one of the kids said New Year is a lot more fun here than in the US.  So here’s to bringing 2019 in with a bang (a hopefully safe one)!

Happy New Year from The Netherlands!!

 

It’s Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas (Markets?!)

Christmas is upon us and it’s a little different here in The Netherlands.  There are Christmas decorations and lights though nothing to the magnitude of the displays in the US.  There are Santa decorations here and there but no Santa at the mall or on street corners ringing a bell.  The radio has all Christmas music stations just like in the US and we found a store that was like Christmas on crack with tons of snow village displays, trees, decorations and more.  There aren’t many Christmas parties or specifically Christmas themed events but there are ice rinks, special shows, and light displays.  And of course, tis the season for Christmas markets in Europe, so we had to check some out.

First, I went to a small Scandinavian market.  Not many exhibitors at this one, but there were some nice things and it was held inside the Norse church in Rotterdam which was very interesting.

Next, we ventured to Brugge, Belgium.  Here the Christmas market was outdoors and spread into several sections of the city.  They had some craft and artisan vendors but there were a lot of food vendors as well as an outdoor ice rink and several midway-style rides and games.  We bought a lace ornament for our Christmas tree and some candy coated peanuts and almonds.  And while everyone else had some hot chocolate, I had some gluhwein, a staple of the Christmas market. (for those wondering, it’s essentially a hot, spiced red wine).

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Finally, we went to Monschau, Germany.  This market consisted of several areas of market stalls spread all over the city.  There were a lot of vendors selling artisan products as well as cheeses, candies, gingerbread confections, breads and of course a lot of food and drink vendors.  Some stalls were inside city buildings and many of the shops around the town were open as well including a three-story Christmas store.  We bought some cheese at this one and then we decided to get out of the cold and eat at one of the restaurants.  Monschau is well known for their mustard so I tried the schnitzel with mustard sauce.  It was a spicy brown style mustard which was good-even the kids liked it.  We also tried their famous dessert Monschauer dütchen which was essentially a hardened cake shaped like a cone with vanilla ice cream inside-no one was very excited about this one.  But our favorite part was trying some chestnuts roasted on an open fire, or rather, in a large kettle type drum used for cooking chestnuts.  We had never had them before and they were good in a strange sort of way.   Monschau definitely had some European charm with the half-timbered buildings which was enhanced by the snow on the ground and the twinkling Christmas lights and garland strung everywhere.

 

Overall though, I think that the Christmas markets may not live up to their “romantic European” hype.  Instead, they are sort of like the fair-you pay to park, pay to get in, pay if you want to buy anything and pay for food which ends up being the highlight of the adventure anyway.   But they are a nice excursion for a weekend in December if you don’t mind being a little cold.  We’re already scouting out a few that we want to check out next year as well as some other winter events.  So, for this year, I raise a glass of gluhwein and wish you all a Merry Christmas!

 

Liability-what???

Last weekend we took a drive to Belgium to an ice sculpture exhibit.  While there we decided to ride the ice slide which might have more aptly been named the slide of definite injury and possible death.  Essentially this was a decent sized curved slide made of ice.  There were small cafeteria-style trays at the bottom of the slide for you to sit on as you came down.  There was not, however, any signage indicating the dangers of the slide or that you ride at your own risk.  There was also no employee regulating the traffic flow on the slide.  Now, I can tell you that cafeteria trays plus downward sloped ice are very, very fast.  I can also tell you that children going down ice that fast can get both scared and hurt, and adults going down ice that fast will likely break something while pretending to be neither scared nor hurt!  Luckily we escaped with just one smashed finger that has healed quickly, but we witnessed large adults shooting off the slide and slamming into the floor on their sides, backs and faces.  We also watched a pregnant woman shoot off and land on all fours, barely avoiding having her stomach hit the ground.  And this was all we could observe at the bottom before having to get out of the area for fear of being knocked over by one of the sliders as they performed their aerial dismount.

Now imagine this slide in the US-no disclaimer, no monitoring; one of those victims of the slide would have sued before they even hit the ground!  This isn’t the first time that we have witnessed this kind of thing in Europe.  Here it seems very unregulated while in the US there is a disclaimer on everything.  But, interestingly enough, here in The Netherlands, we have liability insurance which protects us from liability on everything from our dog biting someone to our kids breaking a window with their ball.  It even protects us if we ruin our friend’s furnishings while eating at a party at their house!  Now I’m not saying this insurance doesn’t exist in the US, but it doesn’t cost too much here and it seems that most everyone has it unlike in the US.  Now, I can only assume there is something like liability insurance for the company providing rides such as the ice slide in addition to the fact that the culture is just not as prone to suing, but maybe I’m wrong.  Maybe in Europe, they just figure if you are dumb enough to sled down a slide made of ice on a tray then you just have to accept the consequences and they don’t need to post a sign to explain that!

I Know Where I Am

This past week, I had a moment of clarity in which I finally started to know where I am, what direction I’m going and how to navigate my path.  And I’m not talking figuratively, but literally-how to navigate my way through the maze of seemingly identical, twisting streets here in Rotterdam.  Coming from a place where the streets are laid out in a perfect square grid with every turn a right angle, adjusting to Rotterdam, where almost no streets are straight, the buildings all look pretty similar and the name of a street changes every couple of blocks you travel, has been a bit of a challenge.  For the first several months I basically had no idea how to get anywhere unless the GPS was on (and that’s driving, cycling and walking).  But then, suddenly, I recognized where I was and I knew what was further down the road if I kept going or what I would run into if I turned a certain direction.  I knew how to bike to the stores I wanted to get to.  I also successfully took a tram into downtown, got off at the right place, knew when my stop was coming up without looking, wandered around without getting lost and found another tram stop to go the opposite direction back toward home.  And finally, I was able to drive to our weekly violin lesson without needing the GPS.  Now, this may not seem like much to people who are used to navigating new cities or have moved often and had to learn a new town, but for someone who has basically lived in two very easy to navigate towns in their life and who never drives in cities that we visit, this is a big deal.  Now, I can say- I know where I am!

Sinterklaas-Fun Holiday or Huge Controversy?

While the Christmas season is fast approaching, the Dutch are already busy celebrating Sinterklaas.  Sinterklaas is similar to Santa (in fact we told our kids that he is his cousin) but he definitely has his own methods and traditions.

In a nutshell, Sinterklaas, who is very tall, skinny, old and stoic, lives in Spain (used to be Turkey) and each year he travels to The Netherlands by steamboat along with his helper, Zwarte Piet, and his horse.  We happened to stumble upon a celebration of the arrival of Sinterklaas a week ago as you can see in these pictures.

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Once Sinterklaas arrives, he travels around the country on his horse.  Children leave their shoes by the fireplace (or radiator should you find yourself without a fireplace) and put treats such as carrots and hay in the shoe for Sinterklaas’s horse.  Then the Zwarte Piet comes down the fireplace, collects the treats and leaves a treat for the child such as a small toy or candy.  Two popular food items for children to find in their shoe are kruidnoten, a small spice cookie, and solid chocolate letters, generally the child’s initial.  Children also sing Sinterklaas songs up the fireplace to encourage the visit.  Then on December 5th or 6th, the family gathers for a meal and while they are eating there is a knock at the door.  When the children go to the door, they find a sack of gifts from Sinterklaas.

Now, this sounds like a fun tradition for children and adults alike, but poor old Sinterklaas is not without his controversy.  The trouble is Zwarte Piet is portrayed by white people in blackface, often with exaggerated African features.  Apparently, this goes back to a story that was written in the 1800s in which Sinterklaas arrived with his “helpter” who seemed very much to be a representation of a slave in the Dutch colonies at the time.  Currently, this practice is very emotionally charged here in The Netherlands.  Some Dutch folk say it’s tradition and it’s not meant to be racist, it’s just in good fun for the holiday.  Others say it is racist and that the Piet should either simply be smudged with black smears because they are covered in soot from the fireplace or they should remove the Piet from the holiday altogether.  It is impossible not to stumble upon (often heated) debate on this topic.

In our house, we are trying the Sinterklaas tradition this year, but with a few modifications.  We have talked about the Piet and what that means and we have decided anyone can be a helper-any color, any gender, any size, shape, etc.  Also, we are not putting our shoe out every night for 3 weeks-nobody needs that much junk!  Instead, we put them out 2 times each week.  So far, Sinterklaas has been a fun addition to the holidays and we’ve enjoyed the cultural lesson.  And parents, let me just say that there is as much excitement and anticipation about getting something small or candy on several nights as there is with a big item just one night a year- just in case you were wondering!

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